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  #16  
Old 08-16-2018, 08:05 AM
c-attack c-attack is offline
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It seems unlikely your motherboard has turned into a DRAM eating monster, pushing heavy current through the sockets. However, I am worried it would not boot up with one stick of the old. Nevertheless, this seems like a settings issue and either way you still need current to do actual damage. That should not be possible, XMP or not, with any of your settings.

You were pretty thorough in your attempts to reset the board. Suddenly I am more appreciative of my simple push button reset.
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  #17  
Old 08-16-2018, 08:37 AM
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That should be fine. The BIOS should detect that the RAM has different settings and re-initialize it.
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  #18  
Old 08-16-2018, 06:35 PM
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It's certainly possible. It's tough to say without those beep codes.
Just tested my system with my a motherboard speaker. I hear five beeps. My motherboard manual says that my system as an AMI UEFI Bios. According to this website https://www.lifewire.com/amibios-beep-codes-2624543
that means that there is a processor error. The computer shut down right after the fifth beep.

Does this mean that something went wrong with my CPU? Did putting 1.4V through it cause a big problem? Is this enough information to rule out the RAM? I did make sure that the RAM was seated properly.

I haven't tried the new ram yet. I'd prefer to keep it in the box so that I can return it with amazon if its not necessary.
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  #19  
Old 08-16-2018, 07:00 PM
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I think you can leave the new RAM in the box, especially at the current prices. I would try and find a second confirming source for the beep code, preferably a Gigabyte one. While probably the same, we are getting into really difficult testing part. Checking your CPU or motherboard is a pretty expensive obstacle. I suppose the obvious next step would be to reseat the processor, if you have not done so already. Perhaps Dev has some more ideas.
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  #20  
Old 08-16-2018, 09:03 PM
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I think you can leave the new RAM in the box, especially at the current prices. I would try and find a second confirming source for the beep code, preferably a Gigabyte one. While probably the same, we are getting into really difficult testing part. Checking your CPU or motherboard is a pretty expensive obstacle. I suppose the obvious next step would be to reseat the processor, if you have not done so already. Perhaps Dev has some more ideas.
According to this link from Gigabyte, 5 beeps on an AMI bios means "CPU Error" https://www.gigabyte.com/Support/FAQ/816

I resat the CPU and had no luck. In the process, I snapped some pictures. Does anything look wrong? I didn't see any burn marks or anything obvious, but maybe I'm missing something.

Imugr link in case pictures don't work: https://imgur.com/a/GuhgJIB





And so it seems that we know its not PSU, RAM or expansion cards (due to beep codes) so if its not the CPU that only leaves the motherboard? Could updating the BIOS possibly help? Can I even flash the updated bios if the computer does not post?

Last edited by B77WGE115B; 08-16-2018 at 09:32 PM.
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  #21  
Old 08-16-2018, 10:25 PM
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Oh man. That sucks.

At this point, it's either the CPU or the motherboard. The best way to test is either a known-good CPU or a known-good motherboard. I doubt you have either laying around. BUT ... all you would need to check the motherboard would be a ~$40 Skylake Celeron. If that posts fine, then you know that your CPU is shot. If it doesn't, then it's likely the motherboard.

1.4V, especially for a short period, really shouldn't kill your CPU. Neither of the pictures really showed anything as an issue that I could see but ... if this started and you hadn't remounted the CPU, then the CPU is probably the issue - it's mounting the Intel CPUs that can damage motherboards; those pins are super-fine and easy to mess up.
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  #22  
Old 08-17-2018, 07:35 AM
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BUT ... all you would need to check the motherboard would be a ~$40 Skylake Celeron
Seems like they are kind of hard to get a hold of these days. I've called every computer shop in the area and no one seems to have them available. Getting a Kaby Lake Celeron might be easier, and my motherboard supports Kaby Lake, but I'm not sure
if my bios is up to date enough to support them.

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Oh man. That sucks.
1.4V, especially for a short period, really shouldn't kill your CPU. Neither of the pictures really showed anything as an issue that I could see but ... if this started and you hadn't remounted the CPU, then the CPU is probably the issue - it's mounting the Intel CPUs that can damage motherboards; those pins are super-fine and easy to mess up.

I didn't remount the CPU at all. As soon as I hit "save and exit" in the bios and rebooted, I had the issue. I'm still trying to figure out how all of this happened as well, I really don't understand how 1.4V and enabling XMP fried either the motherboard or CPU.

I'll try breadboarding my build when I get off work. I was saving up for a GTX 1080Ti, but I ended up using the cash to get a new 8700k and motherboard. Hopefully the problem lies only with the motherboard/cpu and the new components will sort everything out.

I'm assuming that my testing has ruled out PSU, graphics card, RAM and cooling so the issue must be the motherboard and cpu, and if I were to replace both, the problem should be solved? Any other tests I should be running to figure out if other components are faulty as well? I would hate to lose my ability to exercise Amazon's excellent return policy for the new parts only to figure out it was a graphics card problem all along.

Last edited by B77WGE115B; 08-17-2018 at 08:04 AM.
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  #23  
Old 08-17-2018, 08:07 AM
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Seems like it is narrowed down. Tough to recommend "go replace your CPU and board" as a troubleshooting strategy, but the alternatives probably involve shipping the those two components off to some other location for an extended period of time. My current motherboard brand infers they will charge you for service if they don't find the answer, even when their tech support recommends you send it in. Read yours carefully if you go that path.

I leaning toward the motherboard, but mostly based on the idea that 1.40v on boot is not enough to damage a CPU and if the CPU was somehow damaged this way, then the motherboard improperly passed on a level of current beyond what it should have. Also, while I can't speak for every board, the "bad CPU" usually kicks back a code but not necessarily a shutdown. This power on, power off stuff seems like a power issue, which is why this started on the PSU. The motherboard is the next step in the chain.

Dev's recommendation seems like the least expensive option, certainly more so than a new board or even mailing both components off.
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  #24  
Old 08-17-2018, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by c-attack View Post
I leaning toward the motherboard, but mostly based on the idea that 1.40v on boot is not enough to damage a CPU and if the CPU was somehow damaged this way, then the motherboard improperly passed on a level of current beyond what it should have.
Maybe my fingers slipped and I accidentally set 4.1V? At this point, I'm not sure. I'll call around local technicians and see if any of them have a skylake processor that they are willing to let me try in my build.
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  #25  
Old 08-17-2018, 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by DevBiker View Post
Oh man. That sucks.

At this point, it's either the CPU or the motherboard. The best way to test is either a known-good CPU or a known-good motherboard. I doubt you have either laying around. BUT ... all you would need to check the motherboard would be a ~$40 Skylake Celeron. If that posts fine, then you know that your CPU is shot. If it doesn't, then it's likely the motherboard.

1.4V, especially for a short period, really shouldn't kill your CPU. Neither of the pictures really showed anything as an issue that I could see but ... if this started and you hadn't remounted the CPU, then the CPU is probably the issue - it's mounting the Intel CPUs that can damage motherboards; those pins are super-fine and easy to mess up.
So I was looking some things up on my train ride home, and realized that many people had issues with 5 LONG beeps on Gigabyte boards. Since gigabyte only publish error codes with short beeps, I was quick to assume that my beeps were "short". However, upon closer inspection, they are quite long. Similar to this video.

Looking online, it seems like a lot of people believe that 5 LONG beeps on a gigabyte board is a RAM problem (even though gigabyte doesn't publish this themselves). Maybe enabling the XMP profile caused a problem with the RAM and is causing the boot loop. In fact, if I remove the RAM from the motherboard completely, I get the same 5 LONG beeps!

Do you guys think that applying the XMP profile could have done something to my RAM? Is it possible that my system is currently "bricked" and stuck in an XMP mode, even though I reset the CMOS (multiple times). If I tried my new RAM (Corsair Vengeance LPX rated at 3000MHz), is there a good chance that it would work, or would I need RAM rated at 2133MHz for any chance of getting my computer to boot?
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  #26  
Old 08-17-2018, 07:23 PM
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Do you guys think that applying the XMP profile could have done something to my RAM? Is it possible that my system is currently "bricked" and stuck in an XMP mode, even though I reset the CMOS (multiple times). If I tried my new RAM (Corsair Vengeance LPX rated at 3000MHz), is there a good chance that it would work, or would I need RAM rated at 2133MHz for any chance of getting my computer to boot?

This was my initial thought after the PSU swap did not change things. However, the clear CMOS should reset this (that's why it's there) and you seem to have been thorough in your efforts. If you were to put the new RAM in, it would be detected as new hardware and you would certainly be at 2133 loading into the BIOS. Clear CMOS + battery out should = default BIOS. To that effect, does your system have a way to flash the BIOS from a USB drive in a power off state? Usually there would be a "BIOS" button and specific USB port in the back for this purpose.

We are not as deep into this as you and I don't know what to make of the beep codes at this point. I am way behind you in the research. All I can do is offer a logical argument. I do not think you mis-typed the voltage and absurd values are rejected out of hand in AMI BIOS versions. It would not have accepted 4.1v. I still think we are looking at the board, but there is no certainty.

How long does the system stay powered on when you attempt boot before shutting down? OCP shutdowns are fast - maybe a few seconds. A memory problem would more likely cause the boot cycle to hang for 30 seconds. Maybe it shuts down. Maybe a restart.
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  #27  
Old 08-17-2018, 07:32 PM
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How long does the system stay powered on when you attempt boot before shutting down? OCP shutdowns are fast - maybe a few seconds. A memory problem would more likely cause the boot cycle to hang for 30 seconds. Maybe it shuts down. Maybe a restart.
It stays on for quite a while. My scenario is exactly like the video I linked above. I power the computer on, the fans stay on for about 15 seconds. Then I hear the five beeps, which takes between 5-7 seconds to complete. And then the computer restarts. So in total, about 20 seconds per cycle.
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  #28  
Old 08-17-2018, 07:56 PM
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So restart and not shutdown? Those are definitely long beeps in the video. This does somewhat reset the discussion and I feel like we are back to DRAM issues. However, the thing that is bothering me is I am not accepting of the 'simultaneous failure of 2-4 RAM modules'. One could have been scrambled. All of them? I feel like it should have let you back in with one of the sticks and I am sure you tried them all.

This does make it tempting to open the other kit, but I certainly can't guarantee that it will produce a change.
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  #29  
Old 08-17-2018, 08:18 PM
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So restart and not shutdown? Those are definitely long beeps in the video. This does somewhat reset the discussion and I feel like we are back to DRAM issues. However, the thing that is bothering me is I am not accepting of the 'simultaneous failure of 2-4 RAM modules'. One could have been scrambled. All of them? I feel like it should have let you back in with one of the sticks and I am sure you tried them all.

This does make it tempting to open the other kit, but I certainly can't guarantee that it will produce a change.
Yes, restart, not shutdown. Was I saying shutdown this whole time? I apologize. I have 2 sticks of ram, and I do think its highly unlikely that they both failed simultaneously. I did however call a local computer repair shop, and they said they might have some DDR4 ram lying around that I can test in my rig. Hopefully that can help sort out my issues.
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  #30  
Old 08-19-2018, 10:02 AM
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So restart and not shutdown? Those are definitely long beeps in the video. This does somewhat reset the discussion and I feel like we are back to DRAM issues. However, the thing that is bothering me is I am not accepting of the 'simultaneous failure of 2-4 RAM modules'. One could have been scrambled. All of them? I feel like it should have let you back in with one of the sticks and I am sure you tried them all.
So the computer is off to the technician, and he said 24-48 hours for him to run the diagnostic. Unfortunately, I had to resort to one of the large chain stores since the smaller shops in my area didn't have the parts I need. I can't watch them diagnose the PC, so I hope they don't come back and just say "everything's wrong, buy new stuff, look you can get it here".

In the mean time, if the issue turns out to be RAM, I'm still trying to figure out if the issue is with the RAM itself, or the RAM slots on my motherboard. Which one do you think is more likely to have died after enabling XMP? My memory (G.Skilll Ripjaws V) is rated for 2400MHz, and states my motherboard (Gigabyte Z170X UD3 Ultra) is on its QVL. Not exactly sure why something went wrong, but I'd like to figure it out for next time.
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