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H115i Backplate issue. VERY loose on MSI Z170 Gaming Titanium


TechnoJoe

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I am working on a new build and have installed the backplate for the Corsair H115i cooler. It is EXTREMELY loose. I have tried to do some research and half the people are saying it should be loose by design and half are saying it should not. I've read adding washers helped and made it worse.

 

Does anyone have any ideas about this?

 

Installed Backplate

https://streamable.com/mx7m

 

https://streamable.com/576v

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Installing the pump will tighten up the fit of the backplate. I would try that first and see how it turns out before trying something like adding washers.

 

khaos is right - Shameless plug: knowledge base article here regarding loose backplate. We also do not suggest using washers when installing the mounting bracket as doing so could put undue stress to your CPU and/or motherboard.

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  • 3 months later...
khaos is right - Shameless plug: knowledge base article here regarding loose backplate. We also do not suggest using washers when installing the mounting bracket as doing so could put undue stress to your CPU and/or motherboard.

 

I am having the same problem and what Corsair says -- that this is normal -- does not apply to my case. the thermal paste does not even spread out completely over the CPU, as the photos indicates.

 

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e364/Contiusa/Corsair01_zpsmd0i0u8z.jpg

 

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e364/Contiusa/Corsair02_zpshgqkqxxp.jpg

 

And here is the result after placing washers

 

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e364/Contiusa/Corsair03_zpsufxzwoz6.jpg

 

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e364/Contiusa/Corsair04_zpsxxrz4y7f.jpg

 

The drop in temperature was also considerable. With washers it passes OCCT at 4.6Ghz. Without it, obviously, does not go beyond 4.2Ghz.

 

NOTE: the backplate is straight as an arrow (not bent or warped), my motherboard is a Z77X-D3H and is fine. I am testing seven coolers and all of them are mounting perfectly fine. The temps are very well distributed over all four cores of my i7-3770K in all seven coolers. The H60 might have a slight dead spot over the core #0 because it is generally 1-2ºC hotter than normal, but nothing alarming. Everything is smooth other than the backplate gap.

 

What gives? Perhaps some manufactures have problems and are delivering wrong / poorly measured backplate mounts? I don't believe the Z77X is that thin. At least it might be the same as any H81 and H97 out there.

 

Or my backplate is a lemon and I should RMA my unit?

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I too have a loose backplate on the MSI 970 Gaming MS-7693 motherboard. The mounting flange for the H-100iV2 is a torsion spring. If it does not deflect enough it will not apply the designed pressure to the CPU heat spreader. I too did not get proper spreading of the TIM material I applied. I solved the problem by getting (4) #8 fiber washers from the hardware store to go over the backplate mounting hole standoffs that pass through the motherboard. I measured the gap with digital calipers at .115". I found the fiber washers to be .107 thick and they took almost all of the looseness out of the backplate when I reinstalled the mounting flange standoffs. The TIM properly spreads out on the CPU heat spreader and my CPU temps when fully loaded dropped 15 degrees.:biggrin:
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I too have a loose backplate on the MSI 970 Gaming MS-7693 motherboard. The mounting flange for the H-100iV2 is a torsion spring. If it does not deflect enough it will not apply the designed pressure to the CPU heat spreader. I too did not get proper spreading of the TIM material I applied. I solved the problem by getting (4) #8 fiber washers from the hardware store to go over the backplate mounting hole standoffs that pass through the motherboard. I measured the gap with digital calipers at .115". I found the fiber washers to be .107 thick and they took almost all of the looseness out of the backplate when I reinstalled the mounting flange standoffs. The TIM properly spreads out on the CPU heat spreader and my CPU temps when fully loaded dropped 15 degrees.:biggrin:

 

Yup, mine dropped 10ºC+ and I still have room to tight, but I don't want to push it too much. In my mind this should be done by Corsair engineers so we don't have to play Russian roulette with our CPUs. Without washers the unit is just useless.

 

I can only imagine how the quality control let these backplate mounts leave the drawing table. It makes absolute no sense, especially the note that this looseness is OK. They probably have by now thousands of RMA'd units with this problem. I always heard of it, but I never imagined that I would experience it personally.

 

My fan is also making a loud noise at idle speeds and I might as well RMA the whole unit. I am currently using a SP120 High Performance one that is dead silent. I just wonder if I'll get another unit with the same gap in the backplate.

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I can't run my stock fans at full rpm because they noisily rattle very much. Fortunately I don't have to run them that fast to keep the CPU cool. I am using the Balanced Mode for both fans and pump and that is working well. I don't see any improvement in temps when I run the fans full bore anyway. Also, when I did run the fans at full rpm I noticed a lot of oil leaking out of the hubs and being sprayed around the fan housing. Fans are installed in push orientation on the bottom of the radiator in the top of the case. Fans probably won't last a year and I will likely replace them with Noctua SFF-12's like I have on my H-105 radiators in my other computers.

 

Corsair could solve the loose backplate problem in another way. If they made the standoff threads longer and made the standoffs nuts taller or deeper, they would have enough thread length to deflect the mounting flange far enough to apply proper pressure without the nuts bottoming out on the threads.:sigh!:

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What gives? Perhaps some manufactures have problems and are delivering wrong / poorly measured backplate mounts? I don't believe the Z77X is that thin. At least it might be the same as any H81 and H97 out there.

 

Or my backplate is a lemon and I should RMA my unit?

 

I have a Gigabyte Z97x motherboard, with an older H100i and I also have to use washers on the backplate (its been a common 'issue' for years now)

Without the washers my core temp sits at approx 80 - 90 celcius on desktop idle, and the there is noticable play within the backplate / pump header setup.

 

The problem isn't specific to your unit and an RMA would make zero difference i feel

 

EDIT - On a side note, I had the H100i on my old i7 2600k / Gigabyte motherboard (GA-Z68MA-D2H-B3) and this did not require washers. I suspect its down to motherboard thickness etc

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I have a Gigabyte Z97x motherboard, with an older H100i and I also have to use washers on the backplate (its been a common 'issue' for years now)

Without the washers my core temp sits at approx 80 - 90 celcius on desktop idle, and the there is noticable play within the backplate / pump header setup.

 

The problem isn't specific to your unit and an RMA would make zero difference i feel

 

EDIT - On a side note, I had the H100i on my old i7 2600k / Gigabyte motherboard (GA-Z68MA-D2H-B3) and this did not require washers. I suspect its down to motherboard thickness etc

 

It is nuts. But since my fan is also with problems (clacking sounds at idle) I already opened an RMA. Let's see. Perhaps manufactures really make different backplates depending on the region. Otherwise they would have to recall half the line.

 

If I get another unit I'll post if the backplate has a different fit.

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I think it has more to do with second tier motherboard manufacturers choosing or "skimping" on motherboard base material with thinner substrate thicknesses. I don't notice the loose backplate on my higher end ASUS Sabertooth and CHVFZ motherboards. They are still somewhat loose, but at least they applied enough pressure to fully spread out the TIM material and develop good thermal conduction to the pump base. Not the case certainly with my bargain MSI motherboard which cost 1/3 of my premium motherboards.
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I think it has more to do with second tier motherboard manufacturers choosing or "skimping" on motherboard base material with thinner substrate thicknesses. I don't notice the loose backplate on my higher end ASUS Sabertooth and CHFZ motherboards. They are still somewhat loose, but at least they applied enough pressure to fully spread out the TIM material and develop good thermal conduction to the pump base. Not the case certainly with my bargain MSI motherboard which cost 1/3 of my premium motherboards.

 

On this regard I think the mounting method of Noctua and DeepCool (at least for the Lucifer V2) is the best, with plastic standoffs and thumb screws. The motherboard can have any thickness and you just adjust the fit with the thumb screw. Maybe won't work for pump blocks, but a similar method would come in handy.

 

My Z77X-D3H might not be sturdy, but I imagine that it has the same thickness of any H81, H97, H61, B75, H110 out there -- in other words, much of the market for the H60. They should come up with something better. In other foruns people are making fun of it kind of saying the washers should come in the box because this problem is well known for years :biggrin:

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Hi all. I am very concerned to read this problem with the H115i 280 cooler. I am nearing the the end of chusing all the parts for my next build. I am thinking on getting the H115i to cool the rather hot running i7 6800K chip. I would be pairing these with the ASUS x99II DELUXE board. It is rather confusing now when I see the Corsair h100i 280/ Hidro h1010 GTX and the H110 GT Coolers!! Could someone clarify what is the difference between these coolers and will I need to fit washers to the backplate on these please.

Regards.

Mike

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Hi all. I am very concerned to read this problem with the H115i 280 cooler. I am nearing the the end of chusing all the parts for my next build. I am thinking on getting the H115i to cool the rather hot running i7 6800K chip. I would be pairing these with the ASUS x99II DELUXE board. It is rather confusing now when I see the Corsair h100i 280/ Hidro h1010 GTX and the H110 GT Coolers!! Could someone clarify what is the difference between these coolers and will I need to fit washers to the backplate on these please.

Regards.

Mike

 

I wouldn't worry about it. The H115i 280 cooler is newer than your other listed choices. It pushes just as much air through the radiator and 3 dB quieter than the GT coolers. Same amount of surface area. Its too bad that Corsair dropped the thicker radiator (38mm) products like my H105 because it provided a lot more surface area for heat dissipation. [They still are available online for sale at a good price, but don't have the Link function] My H105's work very well keeping my overclocked FX processors under 55° C. when fully loaded with distributed processing projects. I don't believe you should have issues with the ASUS board. My two ASUS boards are thick enough to allow the pump block to mount sufficiently well without washers. Even if your ASUS board is thinner than mine and the backplate is too loose still, you can always put the washers on the backplate to tighten things up. Any decent hardware store that has the specialty hardware aisle will have the fiber washers I used that I described earlier in this thread. Will cost you less than $2 for four of them. If you have doubts, just get the washers before you start your construction and you will have them if you need them, if not, stick them away safe somewhere for later projects or return them to the store for refund.

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It is rather confusing now when I see the Corsair h100i 280/ Hidro h1010 GTX and the H110 GT Coolers!! Could someone clarify what is the difference between these coolers

No and yes as the part numbers you are specified are invalid.

  1. Asetek make the H115i which replaced the older H110iGTX.
  2. CoolIT make the H110i which replaced the older H110iGT.
  3. Cooling wise all four coolers are much the same, are powered by a SATA power connector and provide a total of 2 amps for the PWM fans.
  4. Only PWM fans are supported by all four.
  5. The CoolIT coolers have two fan controllers and the Asetek ones only have one so only report one fan speed.
  6. The CoolIT coolers report the pump speed to the CPU_FAN header and the Asetek ones a fan speed.
  7. The H115i has improved firmware over the H110iGTX, see http://forum.corsair.com/forums/showthread.php?p=864594
  8. All CoolIT coolers have far better firmware than Asetek coolers, see http://forum.corsair.com/forums/showthread.php?p=795986.
  9. There are far more LED control options with the CoolIT coolers, see http://forum.corsair.com/forums/showthread.php?p=861485 and my post above it.
  10. I recommend the CoolIT H110i.

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I wouldn't worry about it. The H115i 280 cooler is newer than your other listed choices. It pushes just as much air through the radiator and 3 dB quieter than the GT coolers. Same amount of surface area. Its too bad that Corsair dropped the thicker radiator (38mm) products like my H105 because it provided a lot more surface area for heat dissipation. [They still are available online for sale at a good price, but don't have the Link function] My H105's work very well keeping my overclocked FX processors under 55° C. when fully loaded with distributed processing projects. I don't believe you should have issues with the ASUS board. My two ASUS boards are thick enough to allow the pump block to mount sufficiently well without washers. Even if your ASUS board is thinner than mine and the backplate is too loose still, you can always put the washers on the backplate to tighten things up. Any decent hardware store that has the specialty hardware aisle will have the fiber washers I used that I described earlier in this thread. Will cost you less than $2 for four of them. If you have doubts, just get the washers before you start your construction and you will have them if you need them, if not, stick them away safe somewhere for later projects or return them to the store for refund.

 

Hi Keith. Thank you for your help and input on my concerns regarding this possible problems. I have searched for the H105 but without any success.I would have liked a thicker rad for extra water flow and cooling.

Regards.

Mike

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No and yes as the part numbers you are specified are invalid.

  1. Asetek make the H115i which replaced the older H110iGTX.
  2. CoolIT make the H110i which replaced the older H110iGT.
  3. Cooling wise all four coolers are much the same, are powered by a SATA power connector and provide a total of 2 amps for the PWM fans.
  4. Only PWM fans are supported by all four.
  5. The CoolIT coolers have two fan controllers and the Asetek ones only have one so only report one fan speed.
  6. The CoolIT coolers report the pump speed to the CPU_FAN header and the Asetek ones a fan speed.
  7. The H115i has improved firmware over the H110iGTX, see http://forum.corsair.com/forums/showthread.php?p=864594
  8. All CoolIT coolers have far better firmware than Asetek coolers, see http://forum.corsair.com/forums/showthread.php?p=795986.
  9. There are far more LED control options with the CoolIT coolers, see http://forum.corsair.com/forums/showthread.php?p=861485 and my post above it.
  10. I recommend the CoolIT H110i.

 

Hi Red. As always your ar there to help and I thank you very much for that.

I had a look at these coolers and am unsere as to which one you recommended and why.

 

#1. Corsair CW-9060026-WW Hydro Series H110i 280 mm Extreme Performance All-In-One Liquid CPU Cooler - Black.

 

#2. Corsair CW-9060025-WW Hydro Series H100i V2 240 mm Extreme Performance All-In-One Liquid CPU Cooler - Black

I lookforword to hearing from you.

Regards.

Mike

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10. I recommend the CoolIT H110i
Hi Red. As always your ar there to help and I thank you very much for that.

I had a look at these coolers and am unsere as to which one you recommended and why.

 

#1. Corsair CW-9060026-WW Hydro Series H110i 280 mm Extreme Performance All-In-One Liquid CPU Cooler - Black.

 

#2. Corsair CW-9060025-WW Hydro Series H100i V2 240 mm Extreme Performance All-In-One Liquid CPU Cooler - Black

 

When I specify H110i I mean H110i and the URL is http://www.corsair.com/en-gb/hydro-series-h110i-280mm-extreme-performance-liquid-cpu-cooler

 

The H100iV2 is Asetek, so has silly firmware and only reports one fan speed.

 

I have specified why and can't see what else I can say.

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Any reason as to why the backplate is loose? Will installing the pump completely compensate for the looseness?

 

From what I see, the standoffs have a fixed position on to the backplate; the gap is pretty big for a regular LGA 115X motherboard. In my case, as you see in the photos, the paste doesn't even spread completely.

 

In my mind it all depends on your motherboard thickness. If the temperatures are mediocre, like mine, and the paste is not spread out and you are savvy enough to use washers, do it, because the gain is absurd. There is a review of the H45 saying that it performs stratospherically better than the H60, close to the H80... In my mind they tested both the H60 and the H80 with a loose backplate, because I tested both the H60 and the H45 at home with an i7-3770k and they perform 2ºC apart if I use washers in the H60. And I could use a thicker washer, but I did not want to push it. This was supposed to be Corsair responsibility, to measure a good gap for my system, not me.

 

So, it all comes to the mounting method. The H45 has a very primitive / hard to mount system (took me several tries) but it works and the fit is very tight. Hence why some people is crediting the H45 performance to the new pump next to the radiator or the fans. In my mind, it all depends on the mounting gap.

 

The other alternative is that some manufactures are delivering bugged mounting systems. But who knows?

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I am working on a new build and have installed the backplate for the Corsair H115i cooler. It is EXTREMELY loose. I have tried to do some research and half the people are saying it should be loose by design and half are saying it should not. I've read adding washers helped and made it worse.

 

Does anyone have any ideas about this?

 

Installed Backplate

https://streamable.com/mx7m

 

https://streamable.com/576v

 

That's just normal. you shouldn't do anything!!! When you tighten the screws on the pump, it will sit tight, as it should. Using washers will only do damage to your cooling. And if you read the manual you will see that no washers are mentioned when you install the backplate.

 

I've installed over 30 corsair liquid coolers and ALL works just fine. All backplates were loose until I tighten down the pump with the screws. Don't believe in everything you read on Internet. Many "experts" knowing nothing. They just want to be smart and noticed. Always follow the manual or watch the video on Corsair on how to install liquid cooler.

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Hi Keith. Thank you for your help and input on my concerns regarding this possible problems. I have searched for the H105 but without any success.I would have liked a thicker rad for extra water flow and cooling.

Regards.

Mike

 

Mike, as I stated in my message earlier, even though the H105 doesn't appear in the Corsair site anymore, stock is still available.

 

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HKEI3EY/ref=twister_B0128CE0JE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181060&cm_re=Corsair_H105-_-35-181-060-_-Product

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That's just normal. you shouldn't do anything!!! When you tighten the screws on the pump, it will sit tight, as it should. Using washers will only do damage to your cooling. And if you read the manual you will see that no washers are mentioned when you install the backplate.

 

I've installed over 30 corsair liquid coolers and ALL works just fine. All backplates were loose until I tighten down the pump with the screws. Don't believe in everything you read on Internet. Many "experts" knowing nothing. They just want to be smart and noticed. Always follow the manual or watch the video on Corsair on how to install liquid cooler.

 

You obviously are ignoring the image proof that Contiusa provided earlier in the thread. In some cases even if you have fully tightened down the pump block with the nuts and starting with a very loose backplate, the TIM material is not fully spread out on the CPU spreader leading to higher than normal temperatures. The problem lies with the fact that the nuts bottom out on the stud threads before they have a chance to fully deflect the pump mount bracket which provides the desired contact force of the pump block against the CPU spreader. In my case with my FX-8300 processor and MSI 970 Gaming motherboard, I could not achieve correct contact pressure without using the fiber washers to take up the backplate slack. In fact, as I have researched a bit of the problem history here in the forum, several years ago in the beginning of the Corsair H-XXX AIO production, Corsair used to provide washers to mount between the backplate and motherboards.

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That's just normal. you shouldn't do anything!!! When you tighten the screws on the pump, it will sit tight, as it should. Using washers will only do damage to your cooling. And if you read the manual you will see that no washers are mentioned when you install the backplate.

 

I've installed over 30 corsair liquid coolers and ALL works just fine. All backplates were loose until I tighten down the pump with the screws. Don't believe in everything you read on Internet. Many "experts" knowing nothing. They just want to be smart and noticed. Always follow the manual or watch the video on Corsair on how to install liquid cooler.

 

I'm also going to take a guess that in your experience with installing over 30 Corsair AIO coolers .... that they have all been on Intel motherboards. Corsair provides a substitute backplate for Intel CPUs and motherboards, however for AMD processors and motherboards, AIO installation involves re-using the stock socket backplate from the motherboard which is designed for the specific manufacturers motherboard product and NOT in anyway designed specifically for Corsair AIO products. In my experience with nothing BUT AMD products, I have always had a very loose backplate and in all cases would have benefited from using washers to take up the slack. I got away with two AMD ASUS installations that achieved minimal contact pressure where I didn't install washers but now with my experience with the MSI board and the very significant drop in temperatures, I realize that the ASUS installations would benefit too with some washers. Next time I tear down those computers I will be adding washers to take up the slack in them also. Doesn't hurt anything but in fact will likely improve the temps some more.

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I'm going to state that anyone installing a Corsair AIO cooler on an AMD socket motherboard is going to have a very loose backplate. The reason being is that on an AMD motherboard socket with the stock 2 piece plastic cooler retention brackets that need to be removed to install an AIO cooler, you will start with a .115" stud length height increase. The stock AMD backplate screw mount points are designed to stand .115" proud over the top surface level of the motherboard specifically to allow for easy location and securing of the plastic cooler retention brackets which have a molded pocket at the screw points for easy centering and location. This effectively removes .115" worth of mount spring deflection. I don't have any experience with Intel motherboards but would likely expect with the Intel socket design you start with a backplate screw point that is flush with the motherboard top surface so you get adequate mount spring deflection and correct mounting pressure.
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