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This will be the official discussion thread for Version 3.2.5742.

 

If you'd like to report a bug, please respond to this thread in this format:

  • Version of your Link software. NOTE: If you're not using v3.2.5742, please install it and see if the bug has been fixed.
  • What version of Windows you're using.
  • Summary - One line / sentence explaining the issue
  • Detailed description of the issue - This part can be as long as you want. It should be detailed enough so that we can clearly identify the issue and attempt to replicate it.
  • Attach photos of the issue to the post that help #4.

 

10/08/2015 - Corsair Link Software Update Version 3.2.5742

 

Change Log:

  • Fixes a .NET error with specific languages
  • Supports the original Commander unit
  • Multiple Commander MINI device support fixed
  • Fixed random crash of UI when different tabs are clicked repeatedly

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Windows 10 Pro X64. If I right click on the task bar icon, the menu sometimes sticks and is unclickable and wont hide again. After this, if I right click on the icon again, it moves to the front and is again unclickalble.

 

Does not happen 100% of the time though. Ive had it happen 2-3 times since I downloaded a few hours ago.

 

On the plus side, I have an old link commander and I can see all of my stuff now :)

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Version v3.2.5742

Microsoft Windows 10 Professional Build 10240

Summary - I have mentioned for the last 4 versions, I believe, about CL not functioning when coming out of sleep and It is still an issue.

 

Because the 0 rpm fan setting on the Corsair AX760i does not function properly and will heat up until it hits around 42 degrees Celsius then the fan will kick up to about 1000 rpm and make a noticeable whirring noise before it shuts off again less than a second later, I use CL to set the fan to 40% fixed. The process of the fan spinning up and shutting down will repeat over and over which is annoying. At least now, with my R9-390X the fan will spin up and keep the PSU cool if I watch videos on YouTube because my wattage draw seems to be high enough to get the fan to spin up to about 300 RPM.

 

I woke my PC from sleep and started writing this. The temp was at 25 degrees when I started and it is 33.5 degrees now. Probably by the time I finish writhing this it will have hit the 42 degree mark and start with the fan cycling. All I have to do to get CL to go back to the profile I have set ... the fan fixed at 40%... I have to right click on the icon in the tray and click "Show CorsairLink" and wait a few seconds (3-10) and the fan will eventually spin up to 40% (aprox 750-800 rpm). This speed is pretty unnoticeable for sound tho it is still faster than it needs to run and can't be set any lower than 40%. As I stated ... when I watch YouTube videos it will run the fan at around 300 rpm which is sufficient to keep the temps at around 32 degrees.

 

I have brought this issue up on every new thread since version 2.7 but it still exists.

 

Can anyone with a Corsair PSU that is about maybe 100-200 watts more than you need, test this out and verify that it is an issue. Your system would have to draw less than maybe 200 watts at idle or at least this seems to cause it on my 760i ... you may not get the 42 degrees and the annoying fan cycling unless you are in a warm climate but actually I would like you to set the PSU to the "Fixed 40%" setting, make sure your fan shows rpm's (I had to set it to 55% the first time before the fan would even kick on but then reduced it to 40 and it works and will continue to spin up the fans once its is saved that first time) then put your computer to sleep. Wake it up again, give it a minute and then right click on the tray icon and check the PSU's rpm's using the right click menu (Fan and Pump Info) not opening the software itself. See if it says "AX760i Fan 0 rpm"

 

At this point in writing this my PSU hit 40C and the fan cycling has started. It has been about 20 minutes since I have woken it from sleep and haven't put much of a load on it yet. I really need this software to set my PSU settings back to the Fixed 40% profile that I have set for it when it wakes from sleep without having to open the full program every time I wake the computer.

 

Again I ask others to please test this out if they have one of the PSUs that show in CL. Set to a 40% fan .. put your computer to sleep ... wake it up ... check the link tray icon to see your PSU fan speed and see if its 0 instead of the 40% like it should be set too... then open the full software and see if the fan kicks on once the software loads fully. Just another note... I am using the Corsair Link USB Dongle not the commander or whatever its called. The driver was provided by Corsair Memory Inc dated 7/14/2010 version 3.3.0.0.

 

Maybe I'm the only one having this sleep issue ... I don't know ... it seems to be ignored by Corsair and I haven't really heard anyone else complaining about this issue so.... It may be my computer or it may be that it's just a curse that I use my computer for everything and its in a quiet environment and I spent a lot of effort to make it very quiet which is why I am so aware of this issue. If I turned on my PC and started gaming I wouldn't notice this issue since then the PC would draw enough to spin the fan up but as I mentioned.... just typing this post was enough "idle" time to cause the PSU to heat up and the fan to start its 1k rpm on/off fan cycling.

 

I would appreciate anyone else trying this issue out and replying with their results.

 

Again .. the issue with the fan spinning up ... Corsair has given me an RMA but I don't have the unreasonable amount of money I would need to tie up to use it... so Corsair says that my PSU is defective and that's why the fan is spinning the way it does.

 

Another reason I don't go for the RMA is because personally I believe that a new PSU would do the same thing. The fan does spin up on this PSU but it seems to be based on wattage draw not temp. I guess my system is just at a weird point where it draws enough watts to heat the PSU up but not enough to cause the fans to spin up properly so it hits a point (40-42 degrees) and the PSU says "I need to cool" and turns on the fan but the internal programming says "Nope ... you aren't drawing enough wattage to turn that fan on" and shuts the fan off again. The issue wouldn't be an issue if I could set the PSU to the fixed 40% and have it stay there but so far that isn't a possibility for me.

 

I really need someone to verify this sleep issue so that maybe Corsair will fix it in the 5th version. Please set your PSU to a fixed fan speed, put your pc to sleep, wake it up, check if the fixed setting is still working without having to open the CL software window and post your results here...

 

Thanks in advance to anyone who takes the time to post results.

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Version v3.2.5742

Microsoft Windows 10 Professional Build 10240

Summary - I have mentioned for the last 4 versions, I believe, about CL not functioning when coming out of sleep and It is still an issue.

 

Because the 0 rpm fan setting on the Corsair AX760i does not function properly and will heat up until it hits around 42 degrees Celsius then the fan will kick up to about 1000 rpm and make a noticeable whirring noise before it shuts off again less than a second later, I use CL to set the fan to 40% fixed. The process of the fan spinning up and shutting down will repeat over and over which is annoying. At least now, with my R9-390X the fan will spin up and keep the PSU cool if I watch videos on YouTube because my wattage draw seems to be high enough to get the fan to spin up to about 300 RPM.

 

I woke my PC from sleep and started writing this. The temp was at 25 degrees when I started and it is 33.5 degrees now. Probably by the time I finish writhing this it will have hit the 42 degree mark and start with the fan cycling. All I have to do to get CL to go back to the profile I have set ... the fan fixed at 40%... I have to right click on the icon in the tray and click "Show CorsairLink" and wait a few seconds (3-10) and the fan will eventually spin up to 40% (aprox 750-800 rpm). This speed is pretty unnoticeable for sound tho it is still faster than it needs to run and can't be set any lower than 40%. As I stated ... when I watch YouTube videos it will run the fan at around 300 rpm which is sufficient to keep the temps at around 32 degrees.

 

I have brought this issue up on every new thread since version 2.7 but it still exists.

 

Can anyone with a Corsair PSU that is about maybe 100-200 watts more than you need, test this out and verify that it is an issue. Your system would have to draw less than maybe 200 watts at idle or at least this seems to cause it on my 760i ... you may not get the 42 degrees and the annoying fan cycling unless you are in a warm climate but actually I would like you to set the PSU to the "Fixed 40%" setting, make sure your fan shows rpm's (I had to set it to 55% the first time before the fan would even kick on but then reduced it to 40 and it works and will continue to spin up the fans once its is saved that first time) then put your computer to sleep. Wake it up again, give it a minute and then right click on the tray icon and check the PSU's rpm's using the right click menu (Fan and Pump Info) not opening the software itself. See if it says "AX760i Fan 0 rpm"

 

At this point in writing this my PSU hit 40C and the fan cycling has started. It has been about 20 minutes since I have woken it from sleep and haven't put much of a load on it yet. I really need this software to set my PSU settings back to the Fixed 40% profile that I have set for it when it wakes from sleep without having to open the full program every time I wake the computer.

 

Again I ask others to please test this out if they have one of the PSUs that show in CL. Set to a 40% fan .. put your computer to sleep ... wake it up ... check the link tray icon to see your PSU fan speed and see if its 0 instead of the 40% like it should be set too... then open the full software and see if the fan kicks on once the software loads fully. Just another note... I am using the Corsair Link USB Dongle not the commander or whatever its called. The driver was provided by Corsair Memory Inc dated 7/14/2010 version 3.3.0.0.

 

Maybe I'm the only one having this sleep issue ... I don't know ... it seems to be ignored by Corsair and I haven't really heard anyone else complaining about this issue so.... It may be my computer or it may be that it's just a curse that I use my computer for everything and its in a quiet environment and I spent a lot of effort to make it very quiet which is why I am so aware of this issue. If I turned on my PC and started gaming I wouldn't notice this issue since then the PC would draw enough to spin the fan up but as I mentioned.... just typing this post was enough "idle" time to cause the PSU to heat up and the fan to start its 1k rpm on/off fan cycling.

 

I would appreciate anyone else trying this issue out and replying with their results.

 

Again .. the issue with the fan spinning up ... Corsair has given me an RMA but I don't have the unreasonable amount of money I would need to tie up to use it... so Corsair says that my PSU is defective and that's why the fan is spinning the way it does.

 

Another reason I don't go for the RMA is because personally I believe that a new PSU would do the same thing. The fan does spin up on this PSU but it seems to be based on wattage draw not temp. I guess my system is just at a weird point where it draws enough watts to heat the PSU up but not enough to cause the fans to spin up properly so it hits a point (40-42 degrees) and the PSU says "I need to cool" and turns on the fan but the internal programming says "Nope ... you aren't drawing enough wattage to turn that fan on" and shuts the fan off again. The issue wouldn't be an issue if I could set the PSU to the fixed 40% and have it stay there but so far that isn't a possibility for me.

 

I really need someone to verify this sleep issue so that maybe Corsair will fix it in the 5th version. Please set your PSU to a fixed fan speed, put your pc to sleep, wake it up, check if the fixed setting is still working without having to open the CL software window and post your results here...

 

Thanks in advance to anyone who takes the time to post results.

 

I think that you may find my thread interesting/informative. Please see here:

http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=151939

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I think that you may find my thread interesting/informative. Please see here:

http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=151939

 

Ok so my suspicions were correct and getting an RMA would be a waste of time. So I have to stay here and continue to harp on Corsair until they fix their software so setting it to a fixed 40% will keep the settings after it comes out of sleep.

 

lol or I have to make sure that my computer uses over 300 watts at idle so the fan will spin up to a few hundred rpm and keep the PSU running nice and cool.

 

I have tried both orientations ... I installed it first, fan down because my case has a filtered intake setup to be mounted that way (Cooler Master HAF XB EVO Mid Tower). I wondered if, because heat rises and basically there is no where for it to rise to except out of the back, mounting it with fan up would help. I tried it temporally.. the case really isn't built for an installation in this manner... there is only about a half inch of clearance between the top of the psu and the plate that holds the motherboard. I even added a fan to blow air over that small gap but I don't think it was getting "into" the casing itself. In any event... I didn't see any difference in temps and if anything it was even worse so I put it back to the original way it was designed to fit into this case.

 

I thank you for posting that link.. I have been wondering if I should RMA this thing but my only option... since I need this computer running without a week downtime... is to use their RMA where you "pay" for a replacement and they refund it when you send them the old unit back. This way, I could undo the old one and put in the new one without having to rewire the whole system (since also for a regular RMA they want the cables which means completely tearing your computer apart.. well in my case where the PSU mounts in the bottom and the wires are all covered by the MB so you can't just pull them out) then send the old one back... but ... unless you have a credit card (which they will put a hold on instead of charging it) they will charge a debit card instead of putting a hold and well... they want 50 dollars more than I paid for the original for the replacement and I can't afford to tie up that much cash for a period of time lol ... I'm poor but I don't like to buy poor quality stuff so you have to spend big bucks... unfortunately I'm finding that the big bucks isn't buying much quality anymore these days :( .. I purchased a MSI 390X ... 429 dollars .. the most expensive thing I have ever bought for my computer and .. well .. I'm extremely disappointed in the quality of their card. I should have bought the Sapphire instead :(

 

Thanks again for the link... at least I don't have to worry about RMA anymore. You saved me a lot of anger because if I finally was able to RMA it and the replacement "DID" do the exact same thing which it would have ... I would have been so pissed.

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Ok so my suspicions were correct and getting an RMA would be a waste of time. So I have to stay here and continue to harp on Corsair until they fix their software so setting it to a fixed 40% will keep the settings after it comes out of sleep.

 

lol or I have to make sure that my computer uses over 300 watts at idle so the fan will spin up to a few hundred rpm and keep the PSU running nice and cool.

 

I have tried both orientations ... I installed it first, fan down because my case has a filtered intake setup to be mounted that way (Cooler Master HAF XB EVO Mid Tower). I wondered if, because heat rises and basically there is no where for it to rise to except out of the back, mounting it with fan up would help. I tried it temporally.. the case really isn't built for an installation in this manner... there is only about a half inch of clearance between the top of the psu and the plate that holds the motherboard. I even added a fan to blow air over that small gap but I don't think it was getting "into" the casing itself. In any event... I didn't see any difference in temps and if anything it was even worse so I put it back to the original way it was designed to fit into this case.

 

I thank you for posting that link.. I have been wondering if I should RMA this thing but my only option... since I need this computer running without a week downtime... is to use their RMA where you "pay" for a replacement and they refund it when you send them the old unit back. This way, I could undo the old one and put in the new one without having to rewire the whole system (since also for a regular RMA they want the cables which means completely tearing your computer apart.. well in my case where the PSU mounts in the bottom and the wires are all covered by the MB so you can't just pull them out) then send the old one back... but ... unless you have a credit card (which they will put a hold on instead of charging it) they will charge a debit card instead of putting a hold and well... they want 50 dollars more than I paid for the original for the replacement and I can't afford to tie up that much cash for a period of time lol ... I'm poor but I don't like to buy poor quality stuff so you have to spend big bucks... unfortunately I'm finding that the big bucks isn't buying much quality anymore these days :( .. I purchased a MSI 390X ... 429 dollars .. the most expensive thing I have ever bought for my computer and .. well .. I'm extremely disappointed in the quality of their card. I should have bought the Sapphire instead :(

 

Thanks again for the link... at least I don't have to worry about RMA anymore. You saved me a lot of anger because if I finally was able to RMA it and the replacement "DID" do the exact same thing which it would have ... I would have been so pissed.

 

You are welcome.

 

I hope that my thread is useful to others also. I spent a lot of time and effort working through this issue with Corsair. It wasn't until jonnyguru actually did some checking, that it was finally determined that the odd behavior of the AX860i units that I had tested was actually "normal."

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Good Morning,

 

i have Updated from an older Version from CL, after the Update everything works fine, but my LED from the H80i doesent safe the LED Settings. On Startup the LED is lighted instead of red more blue red.

To fix it i must change every color from 0 - 255 and back, after that i can change it to my favorit color.

 

What can i do?

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Windows 10 Pro X64. If I right click on the task bar icon, the menu sometimes sticks and is unclickable and wont hide again. After this, if I right click on the icon again, it moves to the front and is again unclickalble.

 

Does not happen 100% of the time though. Ive had it happen 2-3 times since I downloaded a few hours ago.

 

On the plus side, I have an old link commander and I can see all of my stuff now :)

 

think you scared most people off it, hows it working now?

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think you scared most people off it, hows it working now?

 

I have run into similar problems but not just in 10 it used to do it in 8.1 also .. but ... for me .. it wouldn't go away .. and if i clicked it it would bring it front but it wouldn't go away .. I would have to click on the "show Corsair Link" or "hide Corsair link" depending on which option was showing and then it would go away. None of the other options would do anything. I figure this is actually an issue with some other software in the system though... it has happened with other tray items also, it's very random and doesn't happen often enough for me to spend time trying to figure out what the underlying cause is.

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I too, have the same issue with my AX860i

I barely tax it (it is way more supply than I need) but temps, with the fan off reach to close to 100f degrees. I 'force' the fan on and temps drop to below 80f.

I'd like the fan to be able to run at an 'idle' speed of 650 rpm, thereby being silent but moving air through the PSU.

I have it set to 40%, which gives an rpm of about 770

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I too, have the same issue with my AX860i

I barely tax it (it is way more supply than I need) but temps, with the fan off reach to close to 100f degrees. I 'force' the fan on and temps drop to below 80f.

I'd like the fan to be able to run at an 'idle' speed of 650 rpm, thereby being silent but moving air through the PSU.

I have it set to 40%, which gives an rpm of about 770

 

Yeah .. it used to be that you bought an overpowered PSU so that you can keep it for a long time and even if you increase the load on the system you are still covered... but now a days... it seems that corsair has changed that ... now if you buy an overpowered PSU you will have cooling issues.

 

I too wish you could set the PSU to less than 40% or that they would actually get together with a company who knows what they are doing when it comes to fan control like SpeedFan and allow you to set your own curve based on temp not on load.

 

Lucky for me, my pc is setup like a home entertainment center and sits below my 42" TV that I use as my main monitor which is about 6 feet away so at 750-800 rpms it is still quiet and I can't hear it... but .. I also have my computer set to sleep because it also is a PVR and the software doesn't set it back to 40% when you come out of sleep .. the fan goes back to the default of not spinning and the temps rise. I have to launch the program from the tray and wait for the fan to turn on in the main window then close the main window again and it will be fine until the computer goes into sleep again.

 

Since you have this issue too... do you put your computer to sleep? ... I would like a second conformation that this is an issue and not something specific to my PC so that maybe Corsair will listen ... this problem has continued since version 2.7 which was what I started on and with 3 or maybe 4 updates its still exists.

 

Would you do me a big favor and with your fan set to 40% will you put your computer to sleep and see if when you wake it back up your fan is still set at 40% or if its not spinning until you open the main Link window? You don't have to let it sleep for long .. just go to power or shutdown and choose sleep... once the system powers down wake it back up .. that's all that is needed because it doesn't seem to matter how long it is in sleep mode.

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I too, have the same issue with my AX860i

I barely tax it (it is way more supply than I need) but temps, with the fan off reach to close to 100f degrees. I 'force' the fan on and temps drop to below 80f.

I'd like the fan to be able to run at an 'idle' speed of 650 rpm, thereby being silent but moving air through the PSU.

I have it set to 40%, which gives an rpm of about 770

 

Actually 100f for a Psu is Very cool ,while it can be lowered by running the fan,it really isn't needed.,,and honestly Im very skeptical of being able to lower the temp to @80f as it is likely a sensor mis-reading...

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Actually 100f for a Psu is Very cool ,while it can be lowered by running the fan,it really isn't needed.,,and honestly Im very skeptical of being able to lower the temp to @80f as it is likely a sensor mis-reading...

 

he may not be incorrect .. i just switched mine to F from C and I'm running at 86 degrees with my fan at 40% and the ambient temp is 72 ... so if he is in a cooler environment and I'm sure I'm drawing more power at idle than he is because I'm running a 8350 AMD with a hefty OC, it may be able to be 80 degrees. and also .. when i just checked the conversion of 40 degrees which is when my fan starts to spin up to 1000+ rpms for a second then shuts down and continues to repeat this process over and over making the noise distracting and annoying... it was 104 so .. his Fahrenheit temperatures are close to the same temperatures that are displaying this issue for me as well... mine are just a few degrees higher and that's most likely because my system is actually drawing more power at idle.

 

you are correct that 100F is not too hot for a PSU but the problem is .. the fan kicks up to high speeds making it loud when it hits that point when its set to the default ..no fan.. setting.. its not really an issue of it being too hot. If you draw enough power to get the fan spinning the fans spin at a low reasonable speed for the temp... for example ... if I'm watching a 4k YouTube video and I have it set on the default setting without the fixed fan... the fan will turn on to about 300 rpm and the PSU will run at around 38 degrees ... 100.4F... but if I'm reading a webpage or a 1080 video the temp will get to around 40-42 degrees 104 to 107.6F and the fan will spin up to 1000-1200 rpm for about 1 second and then spin down .. about 10-20 seconds later it will spin up and repeat this process over and over. This was all discussed in the early stages of this thread so you probably missed that.

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CL Version 3.2.5742

Windows 10 Education Edition 64bit

CL shows all 0's for components

 

This is my very first build, so please bear with me. I cannot get CL to show temps for any of my components. I tried to follow the REGEDIT instructions, but I didn't see the folder marked VID_1B1C&PID_0C04. What should I do?

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I am really appointed to see that last patch didn't solve my FAN issue.

 

See the following discussion: http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=149284

 

If I read your issue correctly, no patch, present or future, will fix your issue.

 

I believe this is a limitation of the software that Corsair is using to "interface" with the sensor (a version of cpu-z dev i think) It probably isn't capable of connecting to the secondary sensor / controller which is used for your missing fans.

 

So basically to fix this issue they would have to start from scratch. They would have to create their own way to interface with the sensors and collect as much data as they could about all the different sensors from all the different manufacturers to be able to deal with them all... or they would have to pay a company that has already done something like this such as SpeedFan. Then they would have to completely rewrite the program... Its highly unlikely that will happen any time soon if ever.

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I believe this is a limitation of the software that Corsair is using to "interface" with the sensor (a version of cpu-z dev i think) It probably isn't capable of connecting to the secondary sensor / controller which is used for your missing fans.

 

So basically to fix this issue they would have to start from scratch.

 

No, all they need to do is get the CPUID SDK extended (fixed) to support EC and PM2 connected fans and/or Temperatures.

 

I expect HWM (http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/hwmonitor.html) will have all the same limitations and suspect one way you could get CL fixed is to report that HWM does not report all your fans to the CPUID SDK guys and if they fix HWM eventually CL will be fixed. The code to report EC and PM2 is quite simple and I am at a loss as to why Corsair don't request these fixes. They should also request RAID and USB attached disk temperatures.

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Installing v3.2.5742 on Windows 10 x64 build 10565 (clean install) A pop-up was displayed advising that devices were detected and a restart is required.

Clicking cancel and exiting CorsairLink.exe and then clicking restart in the installer, performs the restart, but apparently without correctly applying the reg fix?

Upon restarting, when Link runs, the same pop-up is displayed. Clicking restart, again restarts without applying the regfix? This repeats ad arthritum.

I uninstalled, rinsed and repeated, with the same result.

Workaround: Applying the reg fix manually or using SIV allowed CL to run fine.

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