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Freshly installed: 150i + commander - questions


kosch

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Hi

 

I've just upgraded from the default fans in my 750D to 2x140ML and 3x120ML Whites.

 

Added in a Commander pro and replaced my h80i with H150i.

 

I had a couple of questions if you dont mind.

 

 

1) I have what I think is the connector from the Pump going to the commander pro in fan 1 slot. Is this appropriate? I notice in iCue I can see the pump speed as Fan 1 on the Commander device and then also pump speed on the 150i device. I was wondering how the profiles work do they clash? I have them both set to extreme at the moment.

 

2) I had assumed as these were the ML120 fans that came with the cooler they were the same in terms of SP/CFM/RPM as the other ML120's I bought. This does not seem to be the case. Can I replace them with the ML120 Pro's that with or without the white LED?

 

Thanks for looking

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1) This one is probably a waste since the 3 pin motherboard connector on the H150i is really a "dummy" header for defeating/utilizing the CPU boot error that occurs when something is not connected to CPU fan. As intended, if the cooler were to fail at boot/power on, you would get an immediate CPU fan error in the BIOS and be prevented from going to Windows. In your current configuration, it's just double reporting and using up a C-Pro fan header and you still have to disable the CPU boot protocol.

 

2) You can use any 4 pin PWM fan you like on the H150i (although I would skip any 3000 rpm industrial or AC Delco-like types). The ML series that comes with the coolers is a lower speed model with the same RPM range as the ML-RGB series. It is intended to be a quieter fan. Yes, you can certainly use any ML Pro models you have lying around and at 1000 rpm or any other identical speed the ML "Quiet" and ML Pro will move an identical amount of air and make the same level of noise. The only time the Pro series will have an advantage is if you are willing to run them at 1600-2400 rpm. That should never be needed and likely will have no effect on a 4790K regardless of overclock. All that said, I'm not big on plain grey, so I would (and did) change them for other ML series fans immediately. The only loss is the stock ML Quiet grey fans are the only ones that can directly utilize the zero rpm mode on the Pro coolers. I am not a big proponent of that one either and would recommend you set them to the minimum 400 rpm is super quiet desktop work is in order.

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Thank you for the reply c-attack.

 

1) That is a good tip in the event of pump failure. I will make the appropriate changes.

 

2) Thanks for confirming. I'll see if I can round up some second hand ML120's in LED white.

 

3) I'm planning on delidding the 4790k this weekend. Already done a practice rune on a Celeron 550 so hoping this will drop temps even further and allow even less fan noise. I figured going from a H80i to a 150i would be better as more fans and bigger rad should mean the ability to cool easier and quieter.

 

Cheers.

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Fan noise should be dependent on the coolant temperature, not the CPU Package temperatures. It sounds like, from statement number 3 above, that you have it set to CPU Package.

When set to coolant temperate, delidding won't have a significant, if any, impact on your fan noise. It will absolutely keep your CPU cooler and give you more overclocking headroom so, IMHO, it's still worth it.

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Thanks DevBiker, I've had a look in iCue but cant see any way to find out if that is the case. Is it burried in another menu somewhere?

 

I'm hoping the delid will give me more OC head room and lower normal temps. I've seen most people report between 10-20c drop under different work loads.

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Yes, it's normal. It is just how the display crunches the values into that small space and the scaling. You can see an even better example with the pump. It looks like the thing is cratering at one point, but it was most likely only a small 30 rpm or so shift. The tighter or more consistent the speed of the device, the smaller the scale/range iCUE gives to the graph. So when your fans are rolling along at a steady consistent speed, it makes it look like they are jumping all over even though it is only a 10-20 rpm shift and probably a mathematical product of the rounding to calculate it rather than an actual speed change. So oddly, if you had more fan speed change during that period, the range would expand and make it look quite smooth. It is a bit irritating and takes some mental adjustment. I don't even look at the graphs anymore. Only the current and recent max values.
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