lsbruva Posted July 10, 2018 Share Posted July 10, 2018 Hello forum! Please help... I recently bought a CORSAIR HYDRO SERIES H60 AIO Liquid CPU Cooler, 120mm Radiator, 120mm Fan for my PC but it's running at 89 Celsius. When I stand my box upright the temperature jumps to 111 Celsius. One tube is EXTREMELY hot and the other is room temperature. Both fans are running (one connected to the corsair radiator and the other at the top of my box). Did I install it correctly? Is there a way I can test its functionality? Thanks in advance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c-attack Posted July 10, 2018 Share Posted July 10, 2018 Do you have the older H60 or the H60 (2018) with the square grey ring? Make sure the header supplying power to the pump lead is set to 100% in the BIOS. That pump needs 12v. This is often called "Full Speed" in Asus Q-Fan but is also the same as "disabling" fan control. You can't see coolant temp on the H60, but can approximate it. Power off and let it cool down for an hour. When you first boot up, there should be some CPU activity and it is normal to see CPU temps briefly peak and then come down. If there is restricted flow in the cooler or some other kind of pump issue, you will be able to watch the CPU temp slowly and steadily climb. 35..40...45..50... If you leave it long enough you will hit the limit and the CPU temp never comes back down. You can watch this with most CPU monitoring applications or possibly from the BIOS as well if there is a CPU temp reading in there. Unfortunately, the one hot, one not tube symptom is not promising and strongly suggests the coolant isn't moving. Double check your connections power connector for the pump. Try a different header just to be sure. If this is the 2018 grey ring version, do you have lights? Do you see a pump speed reading in the BIOS. For the older H60 is should be 4000-4400. I am not quite sure what the new one runs at, but likely at least 3000 rpm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corsair Employee Corsair Rick Posted July 10, 2018 Corsair Employee Share Posted July 10, 2018 Hello Isbruva, c-attack gave some great steps to diagnose further. I'd suggest contacting our support team at support.corsair.com if you're still having an issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lsbruva Posted July 11, 2018 Author Share Posted July 11, 2018 Thank you so much c-attack for your suggestions!! I have the older H60, so when I get home this evening i will check the headers, connections, and check the BIOS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lsbruva Posted July 11, 2018 Author Share Posted July 11, 2018 I checked the BIOS settings and they're as follows: CPU FAN Speed [1923RPM] Chassis Fan 1 Speed [N/A] Chassis Fan 2 Speed [N/A] VCORE Voltage [0.944V] 3.3V Voltage [3.367V] 5V Voltage [4.945V] 12V Voltage [12.057V] CPU Q-Fan Function [Disabled] Chassis Q-Fan Function [Disabled] My CPU temperature is still running high. It climbed to 74C before I shut it down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c-attack Posted July 11, 2018 Share Posted July 11, 2018 It looks like something has gone wrong and the unit needs to be replaced. Contact Corsair Tech Support through ticket system at the top of this page to start the RMA process. As a last ditch hope, try manually setting the controlling header (CPU fan?) to 100% in the BIOS instead of disabled. I don't think it will make a difference, but that question may be asked later and you will have a ready answer. Even at half pump speed, your temps would be a bit higher, but not crippled in this fashion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
packersfan036 Posted October 17, 2018 Share Posted October 17, 2018 set the cpu fan in the bios to full power Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
melloncollie Posted October 22, 2018 Share Posted October 22, 2018 Been having the exact same issue and have sent in a support ticket. My idle temps are 60-70C and that is not normal by any means... I've even removed the thermal paste and replaced it with Arctic Silver. Booting up nearly any game forces my computer to overheat and instantly shut off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barret Posted November 6, 2018 Share Posted November 6, 2018 Only my unit is 6 years old - I guess it's too late to ask for RMA:). Perhaps there's some way to repair it manually? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c-attack Posted November 7, 2018 Share Posted November 7, 2018 Only my unit is 6 years old - I guess it's too late to ask for RMA:). Perhaps there's some way to repair it manually? Not really. This things were basically designed to be put together once, then recycled on death. Obviously if the pump has failed electrically or mechanically, the show if over for sure. If the pump is still running strong, but the performance seems to be lacking (higher idle and load temps), you can try taking it off and shaking it to try and loosen any type of flow restriction. However, this is hit and miss at best with no long term guarantee. If you are seeing the above rapid climb 45...50....55...60...65 and up, then it is probably a done deal as well. Frankly, 6 years is a good run for an inexpensive cooler. Might be time to look at new model. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barret Posted November 7, 2018 Share Posted November 7, 2018 To tell you the truth I think I somehow damaged it myself. Lately (about 3 months) my system has become a little hot: about 55-60 C idle and almost 80 С under load. Yesterday I decided to change thermopaste (never changed it for all these years) and did it. And now, after assembling the system back, it looks like the pump stopped working. Though it shows about 4500 rpms in UEFI, the temperature gradually increases all the way to 97 C. The tubes are a bit warm, the radiator is cold and the fan pushes out cool air. P.S. Sorry if my English is not very good - lack of practice:(: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c-attack Posted November 7, 2018 Share Posted November 7, 2018 OK, that is a blockage. It is likely the pump still is functional (although occasionally you do get a positive speed reading, but no fluid movement). You can try the shake, but there is no guarantee it will work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barret Posted November 7, 2018 Share Posted November 7, 2018 Thank you for the advice. Alas it didn't help:( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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