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Showing results for tags 'cable'.
Found 22 results
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Do you have a white cable that has 3 PCIE/CPU connectors on the power supply side and a 12 port connection on the GPU side? I have the Corsair RM80 2021 power supply and the Zotac GeForce RTX 4070 Ti Trinity OC White Edition graphics card.
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My GPU: GeForce RTX™ 4090 SUPRIM LIQUID X 24G My motherboard: Gigabyte B650M AORUS ELITE AX Micro ATX AM5 Motherboard My PSU: Corsair rm1000e My standard GPU cable is bent dangerously, so I want to buy custom cable, but I don't know which one is the best for me
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We have all been in that situation where we finally finish a build and then BAM the cables look like a bird's nest 🤕. Are you a sucker for cable management or have cables all over your setup/build? All my cable management wizards 🧙♀️, do you have any tips and tricks for anyone struggling? Please do show and tell us! For anyone that is struggling, feel free to post photos and maybe one of our friends will be able to help you out!
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I recently upgraded my motherboard, ram and cpu to the ASUS B450M Aii, Corsair Vengeance ddr4 3600 RGB PRO, and Ryzen 5 5500, which lead to another problem. My DEEPCOOL Matrexx55 ARGB-W case, with mounted LED strip(5v), and 6 CF120(5vARGB) fans will not work with the 12v RGB header on the mobo for RGB control. The Commander Core XT looks like the route I would prefer to go, since I already use iCue for my K55 Keyboard, Void Elite headset and the new Vengeance Pro RGB ddr4 3600 ram. When I initially build out the case, having all branded products seemed logical, especially with the RGB controller built into the case. While I can still use the case for lighting, I would much rather use software and have more control over the RGB. After determining that the 12vRGB header on the mobo isn't compatible with the ARGB fans, I found a DEEPCOOL 12v-5v Transfer hub. That didn't solve the problem either, as ARGB and RGB don't work the same. I am using 6 DEEPCOOL CF120 fans, 3 mounted in the front, 2 in push/pull on a Coolermaster Hyper212 EVO and one for exhaust in the rear. I would be much happier to control everything with iCue instead of using the case mounted controller. Is there a connector/adapter to use my DEEPCOOL products with the Corsair Commander Core XT to control the lighting in my case? Current Build - Case : https://www.amazon.com/pre-Install-MATREXX-55-V3-ADD-RGB/dp/B07Z8T2BZN?th=1 Fans : https://www.amazon.com/DEEPCOOL-CF120-3in1-Customizable-Addressable/dp/B07D3K4XG1/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2QGP9UI3V23TJ&keywords=deepcool+cf120&qid=1654298004&s=electronics&sprefix=deepcool+cf120%2Celectronics%2C87&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExVUlPQkRLRTRNTThQJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzI1NjE3MkNGVzZTN1dITjZFRyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwODUyMDc5MkczUkFaTzRUS1BSTiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU= 5v-12v Transfer hub : https://www.amazon.com/DeepCool-RGB-convertor-ADD-RGB-Transfer/dp/B09Y8V5X98/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=deepcool%2Brgb%2Bconverter%2B12v%2Bto%2B5v&qid=1654298032&s=electronics&sprefix=deepcool%2B5v%2Celectronics%2C82&sr=1-1-spons&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFFVDZZSUY0SjkyRzImZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA4NTYxNjUzM01TWDkzM1VXTkZYJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAwMDIxMTgyVlREUEVWVk5WUElIJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ&th=1 Motherboard : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08KH12V25?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details RAM : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08SQ75MP7?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details -
Hi everyone, I noticed something very strange with my HX1000i yesterday while tidying up my cable management. I've already opened a ticket with Corsair about it, but I thought I'd try and gather some additional opinions as I'm now convinced I'm going mad... I received the HX1000i as a warranty replacement last year for an AX860i with a noisy, pulsing fan. Since then it has, seemingly, been working absolutely fine. When I tried to plug the split 24-pin cable back in yesterday I noticed that the 10-pin connector slides in quite easily, whilst the 14-pin connector was really quite difficult. I seem to vaguely remember it being quite tight the first time I plugged it in, but I didn't think much of it at the time. With the PSU fan upside down, facing the ports, the first two holes of the 24-pin section should be square, then arch shaped. This is supported by the shape of the cable (stock type 3 cable supplied with the unit), as well as images on the HX1000i product pages and various reviews across the internet. On closer inspection, my PSU's first two holes are arch then square shaped...very odd. So the square pin on the cable has somehow been squeezing into an arch shaped hole, which I didn't think was supposed to be possible. Sure enough, the square pin on the cable is also ever so slightly squashed. All the other holes are the correct shape, it seems to affect just these two, which appear to be transposed. Have I been doing something wrong, or does it look like there a manufacturing defect with my PSU?
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Try not to focus on my artistic skills, the non-existent attempt to scale things according to real-life, and the fact that I didn't put the fan cables side-by-side. lol ML refers to ML140 Elite fans. Could be QL140 too. PINK for RGB cables and slots. RED for fan cables and slots. YELLOW for USB cables and slots. TL;DR: Will everything work fine if I follow the illustration above? I'm getting myself some new fans and light strips as soon as the Lian Li O11 Air Mini is available in Brazil. I have no idea where I should begin when it comes to the accessories needed to achieve my goal, so any help would be appreciated. I already have two ML140 Elite fans from my H115i Elite AIO and I think I'll buy another 4 because they seem to be more durable than something like an LL140 or QL140. I might change my mind and get 4 or 6 QL140. I'll have 2 front intake, 2 bottom intake, and 2 top exhaust fans (for my radiator), all 140 mm. I'm not counting the 120 mm rear fan because I'll use a discrete non-RGB fan there, or maybe even an LCD monitoring screen instead of a fan. As for the light strips, my plan is to set an LS100 450mm strip at the top and the other at the bottom, so that's why I wouldn't daisy chain them. I have the Commander CORE that came with the AIO, but not the Commander PRO. I guess I could get a Lighting Node PRO instead, but the Commander PRO would allow me to add extra fans if I ever need to. These are the main questions I have: Would the LS100 Expansion Kit 450mm strips work without the LS100 Starter Kit? Corsair's website says the LS100 Starter Kit is required for some reason, but I'm hoping they will work with the Commander PRO alone since I don't really need 4 strips and another controller. Can I connect the Commander CORE USB cable into the Commander PRO USB slot? If so, is there any difference between this and connecting each controller into a different USB 2.0 slot in the motherboard?
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I have a RM 750 power supply. Specifically this one: https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Power-Supply-Units/Power-Supply-Units-Advanced/RM-Series™-80-PLUS-Gold-Power-Supplies/p/CP-9020195-NA I would like to buy a braided/sleeved CPU cable, as the ribbon cable it comes with is far too stiff to manage in my case. Is this Corsair Premium cable compatible with my power supply? https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-Premium-Individually-Sleeved-EPS12V/dp/B07L682RFB/ Thank you!
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Hello, I wasn't sure which thread that I should post this in, however I am wondering if anyone has ever bough a replacement AC Power Cable for a Corsair PSU? I want to move my PC (running a SF750 SFX PSU) from one room to another depending on what I am using it for, however do not want to have to unplug the AC Power Cable every time... which is located behind a unit that isn't the easiest to move. Will any IEC (C13) Cable work for this and the PSU block manages the power, or would I need a special Corsair cable? I couldn't see a replacement one available online. Thanks in advance for any help.
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Hey everyone, I recently purchased a refurbished Corsair AX1200i. Everything works fine but, unfortunately, it did not come with a Corsair Link cable which is the primary reason I purchased it in the first place (instead of just purchasing a new PSU). Is it possible for me to purchase a link cable from somewhere or is Corsair able to send me one? I live in Australia and I sent in a support ticket but its been over a week with no response. I still have my RM750i with all cables and accessories (including the two link cables that came with it) but the RMi has a miniUSB port with an optional analogue port. The AXi only has a analogue port for Corsair Link which the RMi analogue cable cannot directly connect to the internal USB header through. I understand this is what I need but have no way of purchasing it even if it was in stock: AX 1200i/860i/760i USB to i2C adapter (corsair.com) This is my first time posting to the forums so please let me know if there are any issues or require more information.
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"If you can't handle me at my worst, you can't handle me at my best!" Show us your cable management glow ups! You can do it meme style if you'd like!
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Just assembling a new build this afternoon. First time I've tried water cooling (just an AIO, the H115i). Felt like I'd connected everything up properly, and turned the power on for the first time. Okay, some LEDs are on, the pump/cooling unit is lighting up properly, and...WHAT ON EARTH? Black smoke was coming from the USB-to-mini-USB cable connecting the motherboard to the pump. I killed the power as quickly as possible and the wisps of smoke thankfully stopped, but...that cable was VERY hot, and I could see some of the plastic had melted from the black wire in particular (see photo 1). I've built several PCs before but have never seen anything like this, and I don't even have a first instinct for what the culprit might be. Cable? Motherboard? I was assuming I could use either one of the board's USB headers quite happily (see photo 2 for where I was connecting it).
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Hello everyone, I recently purchased an HX1000. It comes with 4x Type 4 PCIe cables (https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Accessories-%7C-Parts/PC-Components/Power-Supplies/Type-4-Sleeved-black-PCIe-cable-with-pigtail-connector-and-capacitors-for-Type-4-PSU/p/CP-8920143). However, these cables daisy chain to an additional 6+2 pin connector. For aesthetics, I'd rather the cable only have one 6+2 pin connector and still be sleeved. The only official Corsair cable I can find that meets this criteria is Type 3 (https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Accessories-%7C-Parts/PC-Components/Power-Supplies/Type-3-Sleeved-Black-PCIe-Cable/p/CP-8920111). The cable lists as compatible with the HX series, and the compatibility chart shows the HX1000 as being compatible (https://www.corsair.com/us/en/psu-cable-compatibility) with both Type 3 and Type 4 PCIe cables. So I'm confident the Type 3 PCIe cables will work, but is there an advantage to using Type 4 over Type 3 PCIe cables? I've read that Type 4 cables have built-in capacitors that can reduce ripple suppression. Will this even have an affect? Thank you, Brett -
I recentrly upgraded my secondary hard drive to an SSD. I only touched the cables concerning this SSD as far as I know. I booted my computer, SSD didn't show up, but I managed to get it to show up after doing some research. I noticed my top fan wasn't turned on though. My computer was getting hot, I double checked the cable connected to my fan, it looked good but the fan still wouldn't turn on. What can I do? Is there something I can check to make sure I didn't mess up the fan or disconnect a cable?
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So, I want to preface this by saying that I made the switch to Corsair 2-3 years ago, and likewise, that this will be a longwinded post. I didn't exactly have problems with the other products I was using, however, I wanted to try something different. Up until the last year or so, I haven't had any issues with Corsair. I found the iCue software to be a little complicated, but only because I am not well versed with this sort of thing. As for the two mice that I've had, no issues whatsoever. I accidentally broke my Corsair headset (don't quite recall the make/model), and replaced it with my Void Elite RGB Wireless headset. Initially, it worked great. After a few months or so, I noticed that I could no longer use USB 3.0 or 3.1 (believe this exists) slots. I corrected this issue after a little reading. As of right now, I'm experiencing what appears to be a faulty connector/receiver either with my one USB 2.0 slot on my computer, or the cable that I use to keep my headset charged at all times (I've always had these plugged in). That, or the issue was with the default cable connector, or the headset slot itself where the cable connects into. I cannot properly diagnose the problem, and it's extremely frustrating, because my headset may work for 2-3 hours, and then it will say "Charging battery" off and on, and it may go away, or it may eventually shutdown on me. Rinse and repeat. Sometimes it's after 20-30 minutes, and if I get lucky, I restart it, it seems to charge, and then I'm good for a few hours. I want to also add that I replaced the default charging cable that came with the headset with another one that is compatible with it. The problem persists. Unless someone on here can help me come to a solution, I'm going to go make a switch, which frankly, I'd rather not make, but I have been more than patient with this, and to my admission, I've kind of just accepted this and decided to make due with it. As of this post and my registering on these forums, I'm intent on finding out the issue, and fixing it, but I will need help. Lastly, before anyone asks, everything is up to date as for iCUE and the firmware for all of my products. I always make sure of this. Thanks in advance.
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Preparing your PC for the new NVIDIA GeForce RTX 30-series cards? Read up on what this means for your power supply and power cables to keep a clean looking build! https://www.corsair.com/us/en/blog/prepare-for-nvidia-30-series TL;DR RTX 30-Series Founders Edition cards include an adapter that converts two dedicated PCIe power cables into the 12-pin connector. We're producing a full cable that connects to two PCIe/CPU ports on your Type 3 / Type 4 PSU to eliminate the increased resistance of an adapter (and cut down on clutter for those that take pride in pristine cable management). Link to form to be notified when the cable is ready (I've been told users on mobile are having issues with the link in the article) https://sdqk.me/oLLuei1j/sign-up-for-corsair-12-pin-psu-cable-updates#/enter
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I bought the Corsair hx750i and everything was fine while prime95 and furmark, then I started Rainbow Six Siege and in the Menu I have some kind of "whine" from the Graphicscard at the point where the powercables are plugged in. It has to be something with the PSU because with my old one (be quiet bronze 850w) the sound was not there. should I buy new cables or is it something with the PSU? English is not my native language btw. -
Hi All, I am not a newb when it comes to PC's, I have been in the industry 44 years BUT I recently brought 3 RM1000X PSU's and I can not find anywhere which of the six 8 PIN connectors on the back are EPS and which are for PCIe Video. I've checked the manual and there is no indication and I have checked the PSU and there is no indication, I even went looking for installation videos to no avail. My previous Silverstone Striders ( still in use ) made it extremely clear and even had different socket colours ( blue ) for you to plug the PCIe connections into so there could be no confusion. I HATE making assumptions. Are the six 8 pin connections on the PSU all the same I.E you could plug PCIe or EPS into any of them and it would just work or are there specific connectors for specific cabling - this needs to be a lot clearer IMHO. Thanks in advance.
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Hi all, is it possible to swap cables from HX850 to SF750? I'm changing my build from ATX to ITX and using NZXT H210 case, the SF750 24 pin and 8 pin is too short. I know there is PSU compatibility page https://www.corsair.com/us/en/psu-cable-compatibility but I couldn't comprehend the content.
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Bonjour , Heureux utilisateur d'un casque void , j'ai eu la désagréable surprise de voir que mon câble s'était endommagé . Je me suis dit c'est surement du à un éventuel frottement ou autre , sauf que vous constaterez que cette usure se situe juste en dessous du casque ( 6-7 cm sous le casque ) donc cette partie n'est en aucun contact avec quoi que soit . Au vu de cette usure prématurée ,( casque acheté 18/05/18 ) que puis je faire pour réparer mon casque ? est il démontable ? dois je le faire renvoyer ? En attendant , j'ai posé un morceau de chatterton pour éviter qu'il s'endommage encore plus mais c'est très peu esthétique . Merci Bien à vous , Arkheon
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Guys, I purchased this psu, but i dont know how to connect the cables(maybe i am getting old). It is completely different from my old psu(Xilence) and the manual that vae with the box, isnt a manual. F.I. i dont know which part of the cables needs to be connected to the mainboard and which part where in the psu. I dont know which cable to connect to my GPU, and so on. I watched Youtube, but beside some unboxing vids i cant find a tutorial. Hope some can help.
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Hi everyone So recently I bought a used RM850i for a new build I'm doing for myself. I got a good price for it and it was used in a mining rig with another RM850i in parallel. The thing never got over 50% usage and the fan never even spun. The issue is some cables are broken and some are even missing. The person I bought it from said he would order new cables because as I understand you need all the cables for RMA to be valid. The PSU still has 9 years on the warranty so I just need some cables and I'm set. I'm missing: 1x MOLEX 1x CPU 8pin 1x 700mm SATA 2x 850mm SATA Both Corsair link cables All MOLEX to floppy adapter/cables The PSU is in perfect condition. Not even a dust spec on it. Which of these cables do I need for RMA to be valid in case I need it, and where can I get them for a humane price. I'm doing this to help the person who sold me the PSU so he can get a decent price for the missing cables and so I can be sure that I can RMA the PSU if something happens.
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Hi Folks: I know I'm not the only one with a cracked keyboard cable. I like my three year old, out of warranty, K70 LUX RGB keyboard, and it's operating perfectly. The rubber has separated and the wires are exposed right at the end of the strain relieve sleeve on the keyboard. The strain relieve sleeve should have been much longer. These wires are bearing the mechanical strain that the rubber sheathing and fabric cover should be handling. Advice - If the fabric sheath or rubber cable tear or crack on a keyboard that's under warranty, submit a ticket to Corsair support. Bad things are starting to happen. I've submitted a ticket to Corsair support, asking if I can pay for a replacement cable, or to have the cable replaced by Corsair. The answer is a polite "no". I'm looking for an alternative to throwing a perfectly good keyboard away. Has anybody found a fix for this? I haven't taken the keyboard apart yet. Can the cable be cut and the wire ends soldered to a connector that plugs into the keyboar's printed circuit board? Is there some goop I can apply to the break in the cable that will harden into a solid new section of the cable, capable of enduring the strain? Failing that, has anybody come up with a strain relief that will prevent this from happening to my next keyboard?
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