Yellowbeard's 24/7 Machine - Pictures Galore!

I have been procrastinating on a project for quite a while but here goes. I'm going to start with a pile of hardware and see how fast I can run it 24/7 stable. Most of the hardware profile is flexible and may change as the project goes along. However, my case and cooling are going to stay the same. I'll be using an Obsidian 800D of course along with a modded Vapochill LS-1 single stage phase change cooler. I'll be documenting my progress in this thread.

 

I finally decided to start with the motherboard and CPU. Phase change cooling requires motherboard insulation due to the condensation accrual when using sub ambient cooling. I used a technique that is popular these days and utilizes putty or clay type eraser material. Here's a how to guide posted at the K|ngp|n Cooling forums I frequent posted by noted OCer and reviewer 3oh6 from Hardware Canucks: 3oh6's Insulation Guide

 

Here's the front of the MOBO (EVGA P55 FTW "657") with the insulation applied:

 

 

And a closeup of the CPU socket area:

 

 

Here's a shot of the back plate for the LS-1. This is a custom mount from member DunieK at the Xtreme System forums. This mount will accomodate socket 1366, 1156, and AM2/3.

 

Stock Settings, Baseline Cooler Info

 

Due to the nature of the cooling, I have 3 different sources of temperatures; EVGA's Eleet utility, a thermocouple probe attached to the CPU heat spreader as shown on page 3 of this thread, and also a temp probe on the evaporator. Of course, all 3 of these will show different temperatures but they can all be compared to show the relative change in temps.

 

Here is the first comparison I am doing just for some baseline temperatures. This is done at an ambient temperature of 23C. The CPU is at box stock defaults and the XMP profile is enabled for the memory. Here is a comparison of temperatures of idle versus 100% load after 30 minutes. The thermocouple probe shows a temp of -19.5C at idle and -2c under load. The evaporator sensor shows -29c at idle and -21c under load. I have not verified but I would assume that the Eleet utility pulls it's info from the BIOS which pulls from the temp sensor on the CPU or in the CPU socket. I will try to verify the source of this temperature.

 

Reserved for benchmark results, etc.

My phase change unit is an older Vapochill LS-1 single stage unit. I am at least the 3rd owner and it has some mileage on it. So, luckily, a talented phase change guy (SDumper from Xtreme Systems) lives a few miles from me. I took the unit to him for a couple of improvements.

 

I have no way of knowing the original gas used in the unit. Scott did some load testing for me and the unit was able to hold a load at only about 160w of heat load. Anything more and it would crash. So, after recovering the old gas and installing an extended evaporator tube, Scott recharged me with R402A refriger******** He retested and I can now hold 205w+ at about -42C in a very brief test. This should be fine for modest OCs in Core i* CPUs. Pix on the way.

 

So, after I got the unit home, I inspected the evaporator head. The finish is still pretty smooth but, there is quite a bit of tarnish on it. A bit of 1500 grit sandpaper then some 2000 should clean this up nicely.

 

EVAPORATOR HEAD BEFORE

 

 

I am not going to do a completely new lap job as I have no idea if this has been lapped before. I don't want to lose too much material on the base thickness.

And here's an AFTER shot. Again, I did not do too much sanding as I don't want to lose base thickness. There is a tiny blemish in the upper right hand portion of the face, at the 1:00 position. But, I don't think it will be an issue. Good application of the TIM should accomodate any of the small pits or blemishes.

 

Looks good. Keep the thread going.

Looks good. Keep the thread going.

 

That's the plan. My next big move is to decide how and where to cut a hole im my 800D :eek:

 

I think I am going to run the evaporator line in thru the rear 140mm fan grill. I can cleanly cut the center of it out and run it in through there. And, that brings it in at the correct height to line up with the CPU socket.

 

I initally considered cutting the plexi on the window and coming in that way. The plexi is easily replaceable. However, it would be a pain to remove the side panel if I need access. So, I'll most likely cut a hole here:

 

 

It should be easy to cut the correct sized hole and put a grommet in there.

Would it not simply be easier to cut one of the water inlet tubes and not mess with the fan holes?

Would it not simply be easier to cut one of the water inlet tubes and not mess with the fan holes?

 

I'm not using water cooling. The phase change cooler uses a flexible copper line that is brazed to a compressor on one end and has the evaporator headed brazed to the other. So, unless I run with no side panel, I'll have to cut a hole somewhere as I am not unbrazing that evaporator line.

Can you just enlarge the water cooling holes in the case and use those instead of cutting the fan vent for your evap head.

 

http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk293/luv2eather/Gif/YellowBeard.jpg

No, because his line is brazed (welded together) and the system is sealed, so if you think about it like the H50, you can not run the H50's radiator outside of the case unless you have a hole in it big enough to to shove the radiator through.

I can always replace the stock grill area with an aftermarket grill later if I decide to put a fan back into the rear fan mount.

No, because his line is brazed (welded together) and the system is sealed, so if you think about it like the H50, you can not run the H50's radiator outside of the case unless you have a hole in it big enough to to shove the radiator through.

 

I understand that, he only needs a hole big enough to run the head through. I was talking about cutting out the two holes that are pre installed for running water lines through. If you cut those out, into a box shape, there would be plenty of room for the head. But an aftermarket cover later would be good too.

Have you decided what video card you are going to run in it?

Have you decided what video card you are going to run in it?

 

Not yet. It will likely initially be a Sapphire 2GB 4890 or a pair of ATI reference 1GB 4890s in XFire. However, as we go along I should have access to some 58** or 59** series cards.

HD throughput should not be an issue. RAID-0 here I come! ATTO results soon.

 

Thats an interesting choice for Hd's. I am curious, why no X64 drives for best performance?

Thats an interesting choice for Hd's. I am curious, why no X64 drives for best performance?

 

These are what I have on hand. ::pirate::

Good reason.

 

You can't go wrong with either 4890 cards. I really like mine. At least that gives you some time until Fermi is launched, and you can get some real numbers on those, or ATI will have their refresh ready, and at a lower price to combat Nvidia. Its a win win for you.

This should be one nice rig.

 

(he even has a real Pirate flag!)

This should be one nice rig.

 

(he even has a real Pirate flag!)

 

All I need to do is get you to make a properly modded 800D for it ::pirate::

 

I'm a crude duct tape and ball peen hammer modder. :sigh!:

Sometimes, really simple things impress me. For those of you that don't own one of these or have never seen one, it's a great little tool for computer assembly. I was given this one but I am sure that most any auto parts store would have these.

 

It's a small "magnetic finger". It's great for retrieving lost screws down inside a case, etc. I used it to hold washers and a nut in place down inside a tight area while I started the screw. I could not even see the end of the screw and did it by feel.

 

MagFinger 1

 

 

 

MagFinger 2

 

 

 

Magfinger 3

 

Just don't forget to take it off if you install a platter drive lol. I can see that being a handy tool.

With this type of cooling, it is VERY important to perform a test to determine how well your CPU cooler is mating with the heat spreader on the CPU. To test, you need to apply your TIM to the evaporator head only. Have the CPU heat sink clean. Then mount the evaporator head as if you were installing it to run it, and remove it. Then, visually inspect the impression of the TIM left behind on the CPU.

 

As you can see in the pictures below, my first test shows that I was not getting a flush even mount. What I discovered is that the mounting screws closest to the memory slots started spinning after I got a certain amount of tension onto them where the other 2 screws did not. This translated into an uneven mount. This will result in reduced cooling efficiency and possibly allow a gap where condensation could build up between the evaporator head and the CPU heat sink. Condensation on the CPU = bad.

 

BEFORE

 

 

 

AFTER

 

The cooler is finally mounted. I cut a small hole thru the rear 140mm fan grill and made a grommet out of a spare piece of tubing. Thanks for that tip to Tazz from Modder's Inc.

 

I reused the heating element for the cooling head mount. It's a small 5w heater to help resist condensation.

 

I also fashioned a ring of putty and put it around the outside of the mount. Once the mount was secured, I pushed this ring down and used it to mate the head to the existing putty surrounding the CPU socket. There's also a bit of dielectric grease on the CPU. So, I think we'll be good against condenstion, even in July here in Georgia.

 

The red arrow indicates the ring of putty on the mount.