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Obsidian Case Mod project for Hardware Canucks


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http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/hc.beaver.jpg

 

This is the project for "Hardware Canucks" Canada's hard hitting IT review internet publication. The canvas is the Corsair Obsidian 800 Case.

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/hc.jpg

 

This build is sponsored by Mnpctech.com

 

Here is some of the Case Mod Supplies that will be used in this project

 

Acoustical Sound Proofing Sheets for your PC

 

http://www.mnpctech.com/acoustical_pack_foam_pc_soundproofing_grey_sheets1.jpg

 

Clear acrylic sheet for computer case windows

 

http://www.mnpctech.com/clear_acrylic_sheet_casemod_mnpctech.com1.jpg

 

U-channel case window molding

http://www.mnpctech.com/Uchannel1.jpg

 

Black PC Cable Wire Sleeving Kit

http://www.mnpctech.com/PC_Cable_Wire_Sleeving_Kit.html

 

http://www.mnpctech.com/cable_wire_sleeve_heatshrink_black_mnpctech.com.jpg

 

You can get Black Pop Rivets from Mnpctech

http://www.mnpctech.com/Pop_rivets_for_computer_case.html

 

http://www.mnpctech.com/pop_rivet_black_computer_case_chassis_doomed.jpg

 

Copper Rivets

http://www.mnpctech.com/copper_blind_pc_case_pop_rivet_mnpctech.com.jpg

 

Pop Rivet Gun

http://www.mnpctech.com/Pop_Rivet_Guns.html

 

http://www.mnpctech.com/pop_rivet_blind_tool_gun_computer_case_chassis.jpg

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Ok, lets take a closer look at this Beast.

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/hc1.jpg

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/hc2.jpg

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/hc3.jpg

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/hc4.jpg

A closer look at the pedestal style feet.

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/hc6.jpg

The Obsidian feet fasteners are located beneath their rubber inserts

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/hc5.jpg

 

The best tape is 3M Scotch 233+ Green tape

 

3M Scotch Green 233+ masking tape is used by Automotive Paint Professionals. It's highly conformable to curved surfaces on both metal and plastic. It has good adhesion in a large range of weather conditions. It will peel off without leaving any sticky residue. Most Auto Body Supply Stores should be stocking this tape. It's also readily available online. 3M Scotch 233+ tape has a premium price compared to other tapes, but it performs the best

 

3m_scotch_green_masking_autobody_painters_tape_233_401_mnpctech_cheap_roll_carton.jpg

 

3m_scotch_masking_tape_233_401_mnpctech_cheap_roll_ebay.jpg

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Maybe you've debated about painting your Obsidian chassis. This is how I remove the plastic "Tool-less" 5.25 bay sliders without breaking the tiny plastic tabs inside. These tabs hold the slider onto the bay. You will need to bend the metal tabs as I illustrate here. You need to first file down the sides of the metal tab, so it will sit flush when you flatten it (not shown). I will then tap the metal tab with a flat head screw driver using a rubber mallet.

 

Keep in mind if you're painting your chassis, you will need to bend the metal tabs back into place after re-installing the sliders. Doing this will likely chip your new paint! so you'll have to re-touch these tabs again. After considering this thought, I've decided to eliminate the sliders altogether. Corsair has left the option of fastening in your optical drive the traditional way with screws. Only 2 screws per side, but thats sufficient enough!

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/hc9e.jpg

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/hc9f.jpg

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/hc9g.jpg

I just barely cleared this flattened tab. Because of the thick factory paint finish, you should file down the sides of the metal tabs first, so they will sit flush when you flatten them.

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Thanks! my intent was for you to reference back to them if ever needed.

 

Somethings I don't have enough time to get in real depth, like altering the window design into a square here :D:

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/hc9b.jpg

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/hc9c.jpg

 

Ok, this was the easiest window mod evar..

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/hc9c2.jpg

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If you decide to paint your Obsidian chassis, remove these plastic tabs in the Hot swap drive bay, poke in with your micro flat head while pulling it out from beneath.

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/hc9h.jpg

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/hc9i.jpg

 

The Obsidian's four-drive SATA hot-swap drive bay has 4x screws, which leads the user to believe it's removable without disrupting everything. Wedged beneath it is vibration dampening material with 4 positioning tabs which has solid grip on the HD bay. The only means I see in removing this bay is by spreading side walls apart, then pulling it out from either left or right side. You can't pull it out toward the rear of the chassis, becuase the upper 5.25 bay has a fold that prevents this, so you have to BEND the side walls of the HD cage to pull it out. I didn't like this thought, I opted to remove the both the 5.25 & HD bays by drilling out the pop rivets.

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/hc9j.jpg

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/hc9k.jpg

 

1/4" thick rubber beneath the HD bay for isolating vibration. Nice one Corsair!

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/hc9l.jpg

 

Upper 5.25 and Hot swap bay removed.

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/hc9m.jpg

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Here is the 120mm version of the Hardware Canucks fan grill. They're cnc machined from 3/16" thick 6061 aluminum.

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/hardware.canucks.fan.grill.1.jpg

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/hardware.canucks.fan.grill.3.jpg

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/hardware.canucks.fan.grill.4.jpg

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/hardware.canucks.fan.grill.2.jpg

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http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/corsair.obsidian.420.rad.blackice.jpg

 

Installing Hardware lab's Black Ice 420 GTX (3x 140mm) Radiator in the top of the Obsidian requires altering the 5.25 Optical drive bay. You must remove the 5.25 bay by drilling out all of the pop rivets on the front of the Obsidian chassis.

 

Supplies & Tools I used for this "photo illustrated" installation

 

Mnpctech 420 Radiator Grill from performance-pcs used for measuring the location.

You can also use these Radiator Mounting Templates

Masking Tape

Any Rotary tool like a Dremel

Jigsaw with 18 TPI or higher metal cutting blade

Center punch

Power Drill with 3/16" drill bit

12" Measuring Square

12x M4 x 35mm size socket head machine screws length of mounting screws on what fan/rad set-up works best for your system.

3x ??????? brand 140mm cooling fans (to be announced)

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/corsair.obsidian.420.rad.blackice2.jpg

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/corsair.obsidian.420.rad.grill1.jpg

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/corsair.obsidian.420.rad.grill2.jpg

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/corsair.obsidian.420.rad.grill3.jpg

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/corsair.obsidian.420.rad.grill4.jpg

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/corsair.obsidian.420.rad.grill5.jpg

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/corsair.obsidian.420.rad.grill6.jpg

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/corsair.obsidian.420.rad.grill7.jpg

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/corsair.obsidian.420.rad.grill8.jpg

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/corsair.obsidian.420.rad.grill9.jpg

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/corsair.obsidian.420.rad.grill9a.jpg

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/corsair.obsidian.420.rad.grill9b.jpg

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/corsair.obsidian.420.rad.grill9c.jpg

 

more to come!

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I'm removing the factory perforated grill to help improve airflow. This mod will also cut down on airflow noise from your cooling fans.

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/hc9q.jpg

To avoid creating scratches in the factory finish, apply masking tape over the area you're going to be cutting.

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/hc9r.jpg

The Obsidian uses "doomed" pop rivets, which doesn't allow the grill to sit flush. I will swap these out to the more flush "countersunk" pop rivets.

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/hc9s.jpg

Use 1/8" size drill bit to remove the factory pop-rivet

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/hc9t.jpg

Pop-rivet Tool (Gun)

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/hc9u.jpg

Tracing the inside diameter of the grill opening.

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/hc9v.jpg

Using the first 140mm fan grill design, to mark off the location for the hole.

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/hc9x.jpg

Using Dremel 1.5" cutting wheel to make initial cut into the chassis

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/hc9y.jpg

Using Jigsaw with 18 TPI metal cutting blade

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/hc9z.jpg

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/hc9z1.jpg

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/hc9z2.jpg

The case panel lip was removed with the Dremel to fit around the grill.

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/hc9z3.jpg

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http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/corsair.obsidian.420.rad.grill9d.jpg

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/corsair.obsidian.420.rad.grill9e.jpg

 

The rad grill pictured here is a 420 (3x140mm) it's machined from 3/16" 6061 aluminum, and anodized Black. It has fully adjustable inserts.

Different sizes and finishes of these rad grills are available from performance-pcs

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/corsair.obsidian.420.rad.grill9f.jpg

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/corsair.obsidian.420.rad.grill9f2.jpg

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/corsair.obsidian.420.rad.grill9f3.jpg

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/corsair.obsidian.420.rad.grill9f4.jpg

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/corsair.obsidian.420.rad.grill9f5.jpg

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/corsair.obsidian.420.rad.grill9f6.jpg

Using 3/16" drill bit to make mounting screw holes.

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/corsair.obsidian.420.rad.grill9g.jpg

This is how my initial cut out for the radiator looked.

 

I attempted to install the grill/rad/fans, but the remaining "recessed" material wouldn't everything to fit together flush without using different size screws. I then decided to modify the panel further by removing the remaining honeycomb perforation and flatten the lip.

 

The recessed center portion of the top panel helps reinforce rigidity. However, the chassis is steel, so I don't believe it was too detrimental to do this. I think it would have been fine to have left the panel flat. I would consider designing the panel perforations in a Obsidian 2.0 with optional for both 360 or 420 size radiators.

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/corsair.obsidian.420.rad.grill9h.jpg

Flattening the fold was done by turning the chassis upside down on the bench, and flattening the folds with a rubber mallet. Now I could use M4 x 30mm length machine screws to attach everything together.

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/corsair.obsidian.420.rad.grill9i.jpg

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/corsair.obsidian.420.rad.grill9j.jpg

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/corsair.obsidian.420.rad.grill9k.jpg

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/corsair.obsidian.420.rad.grill9l.jpg

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/corsair.obsidian.420.rad.grill9m.jpg

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/corsair.obsidian.420.rad.grill9n.jpg

I installed the three included 140mm fans from Corsair to pre-fit everything.

 

All of the 140mm fans will be replaced by another brand to be announced.

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The 140mm fan mounted on the HD hot swap bay relies on air drawn up to the mid section of the chassis by the other 140mm fan AND perforated chassis floor. A better solution would be perforated holes in the side panel over the fan's location. Draw in more cool air and eliminate the plastic "duct-like" enclosure altogether.

 

Addtronics was one of the first to implement "cross flow" drive bay cooling. They gave you the option to mount fans on both sides of the bay. Both side panels were perforated over these fans. It was great way to isolate cooling for your HDs.

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/addtronics.corsair.obsidian.jpg

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Here is the "photochopped" revision of the HC 140mm fan grill, much improved airflow, we'll be working on the real deal in the morning. Yes, I work on Sundays, keepin busy is good these days! :biggrin:

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/hardware.canucks.fan.grill.5.jpg

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Here is the multi pane window frame design based on the fan grill I'm working on. This could be cnc milled with beveled edges from 1/8" 6061 aluminum. Lower left was sketched as after thought, the final design will be draw in cad to match.

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/corsair.obsidian.Window.revision.jpg

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We finished the HC logo inspired window frame today. This was made from 1/8" thick aluminum.

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/hc9z4.jpg

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/hc9z5.jpg

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/hc9z6.jpg

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/hc9z7.jpg

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simply beautiful, you guys are pure artisans. my hat's off to you!!!

 

Thank you for watching and commenting Synthohol! Please keep tuned for more updates :sunglasse

 

We finished the custom HC logo 3x140mm rad grill last night.. each of the grill are 360 degree adjustable...just for fun :D:

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/hc9z8.jpg

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/hc9z9.jpg

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/hc9z9a.jpg

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/hc9z9b.jpg

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Sometimes it's just easier to remove parts like the switches and led lenses instead of taping them off before we prep for custom paint. The Obsidian power and reset switches can be removed with a soldering iron.

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/hc9z9f.jpg

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/hc9z9g.jpg

 

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/hc9z9h.jpg

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Wow, that is beautiful work :eek: I checked out the other parts on your site, very impressive.

My family used to own a small machine shop, so I know what went into that - pure craftsmanship and knowledge. In those days I was modding cars - cold air intake systems, heat shields, small custom race parts....

I have often wished I could go back & mod my old towers (haf932 and a 1200) because they were missing many features, but now with the OBSIDIAN, I don't have to, because they did everything right!

 

I want a few of those Hardware Canuck ones, as I am a Canuck :laughing: They are very nice - where can I get some?

 

:idea: I was also wondering if, since that Canuck grill is very open & non-restrictive to air, could there be a version that would just drops on top of the Obsidian top fan area... without us having to cut up the top of our beautiful case? ;) It could 3 singles or one 3 grill piece - I would buy in an instant :p:

 

The only non-cosmetic mod I would make to the Obsidian would be to replace a USB or firewire port on the front i/o panel for an ESATA port, I wish it had one or two - @ mnpctech.com Do you think that is do-able?

 

Either way, great work and thanks for sharing - gives us great ideas

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