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  #1  
Old 01-26-2010, 07:39 AM
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Default Obsidian Case Mod for Hardware Canucks: Updated Today!



This is the project for "Hardware Canucks" Canada's hard hitting IT review internet publication. The canvas is the Corsair Obsidian 800 Case.



This build is sponsored by Mnpctech.com

Here is some of the Case Mod Supplies that will be used in this project

Acoustical Sound Proofing Sheets for your PC



Clear acrylic sheet for computer case windows



U-channel case window molding


Black PC Cable Wire Sleeving Kit
http://www.mnpctech.com/PC_Cable_Wire_Sleeving_Kit.html



You can get Black Pop Rivets from Mnpctech
http://www.mnpctech.com/Pop_rivets_f...uter_case.html



Copper Rivets


Pop Rivet Gun
http://www.mnpctech.com/Pop_Rivet_Guns.html


----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Ok, lets take a closer look at this Beast.








A closer look at the pedestal style feet.


The Obsidian feet fasteners are located beneath their rubber inserts



The best tape is 3M Scotch 233+ Green tape

3M Scotch Green 233+ masking tape is used by Automotive Paint Professionals. It's highly conformable to curved surfaces on both metal and plastic. It has good adhesion in a large range of weather conditions. It will peel off without leaving any sticky residue. Most Auto Body Supply Stores should be stocking this tape. It's also readily available online. 3M Scotch 233+ tape has a premium price compared to other tapes, but it performs the best




Last edited by Mnpctech.com; 05-29-2014 at 10:48 AM.
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  #2  
Old 01-26-2010, 11:57 AM
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The Motherboard tray will slide out, but you must remove 3x screws and drill out 3x pop rivets, located in the rear (shown in photo) It would have been nice if the rivets were screws instead.
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  #3  
Old 01-26-2010, 04:17 PM
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Maybe you've debated about painting your Obsidian chassis. This is how I remove the plastic "Tool-less" 5.25 bay sliders without breaking the tiny plastic tabs inside. These tabs hold the slider onto the bay. You will need to bend the metal tabs as I illustrate here. You need to first file down the sides of the metal tab, so it will sit flush when you flatten it (not shown). I will then tap the metal tab with a flat head screw driver using a rubber mallet.

Keep in mind if you're painting your chassis, you will need to bend the metal tabs back into place after re-installing the sliders. Doing this will likely chip your new paint! so you'll have to re-touch these tabs again. After considering this thought, I've decided to eliminate the sliders altogether. Corsair has left the option of fastening in your optical drive the traditional way with screws. Only 2 screws per side, but thats sufficient enough!






I just barely cleared this flattened tab. Because of the thick factory paint finish, you should file down the sides of the metal tabs first, so they will sit flush when you flatten them.

Last edited by Mnpctech.com; 01-26-2010 at 04:20 PM.
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  #4  
Old 01-26-2010, 04:25 PM
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You take great pictures Bill! Thanks for posting them here. Keep em coming.
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  #5  
Old 01-26-2010, 07:05 PM
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Thanks! my intent was for you to reference back to them if ever needed.

Somethings I don't have enough time to get in real depth, like altering the window design into a square here





Ok, this was the easiest window mod evar..

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  #6  
Old 01-27-2010, 10:49 AM
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If you decide to paint your Obsidian chassis, remove these plastic tabs in the Hot swap drive bay, poke in with your micro flat head while pulling it out from beneath.




The Obsidian's four-drive SATA hot-swap drive bay has 4x screws, which leads the user to believe it's removable without disrupting everything. Wedged beneath it is vibration dampening material with 4 positioning tabs which has solid grip on the HD bay. The only means I see in removing this bay is by spreading side walls apart, then pulling it out from either left or right side. You can't pull it out toward the rear of the chassis, becuase the upper 5.25 bay has a fold that prevents this, so you have to BEND the side walls of the HD cage to pull it out. I didn't like this thought, I opted to remove the both the 5.25 & HD bays by drilling out the pop rivets.





1/4" thick rubber beneath the HD bay for isolating vibration. Nice one Corsair!



Upper 5.25 and Hot swap bay removed.
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  #7  
Old 01-27-2010, 12:52 PM
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Just for fun, let's see how the Obsidian feet look on a Lian Li PC-7 plus



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  #8  
Old 01-27-2010, 04:32 PM
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Here is the 120mm version of the Hardware Canucks fan grill. They're cnc machined from 3/16" thick 6061 aluminum.







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  #9  
Old 01-27-2010, 04:44 PM
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Bill, I'm assuming you do that CNC work in-house? That is beautiful BTW.
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  #10  
Old 01-27-2010, 06:08 PM
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Yes, we use it for making the case mod accessories we manufacturer for our store and resellers like performance-pcs and xoxide.
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  #11  
Old 01-28-2010, 10:33 AM
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Photochopped revision for better airflow, working on real deal today

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  #12  
Old 01-28-2010, 02:49 PM
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Installing Hardware lab's Black Ice 420 GTX (3x 140mm) Radiator in the top of the Obsidian requires altering the 5.25 Optical drive bay. You must remove the 5.25 bay by drilling out all of the pop rivets on the front of the Obsidian chassis.

Supplies & Tools I used for this "photo illustrated" installation

Mnpctech 420 Radiator Grill from performance-pcs used for measuring the location.
You can also use these Radiator Mounting Templates
Masking Tape
Any Rotary tool like a Dremel
Jigsaw with 18 TPI or higher metal cutting blade
Center punch
Power Drill with 3/16" drill bit
12" Measuring Square
12x M4 x 35mm size socket head machine screws length of mounting screws on what fan/rad set-up works best for your system.
3x ??????? brand 140mm cooling fans (to be announced)



























more to come!
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  #13  
Old 01-28-2010, 07:52 PM
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Here is the revised file for the 140mm fan grill
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  #14  
Old 01-29-2010, 01:27 PM
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I'm removing the factory perforated grill to help improve airflow. This mod will also cut down on airflow noise from your cooling fans.


To avoid creating scratches in the factory finish, apply masking tape over the area you're going to be cutting.


The Obsidian uses "doomed" pop rivets, which doesn't allow the grill to sit flush. I will swap these out to the more flush "countersunk" pop rivets.


Use 1/8" size drill bit to remove the factory pop-rivet


Pop-rivet Tool (Gun)


Tracing the inside diameter of the grill opening.


Using the first 140mm fan grill design, to mark off the location for the hole.


Using Dremel 1.5" cutting wheel to make initial cut into the chassis


Using Jigsaw with 18 TPI metal cutting blade






The case panel lip was removed with the Dremel to fit around the grill.

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  #15  
Old 01-29-2010, 07:49 PM
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I really enjoy to read your posts. I will look forwarding this eventually.. Good Luck with your mod rig! :D
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