Build Log – Corsair Obsidian 800D Liquid Cooled Dual Loop System

Mr_Armageddon · #1 09-27-2009, 08:32 PM

(Upate - 02/17/2012)
I have started a new build. Check it out here.

(Updated 12/20/2010)
Here is the build log for my system. It isn't exactly a "new" build as I have been working on it for over a year. But I recently obtained the final components to complete the build as I originally intended.

(Upated 09/19/2011)
Added some "official" 3dMark 11 and Vantage scores. See post #245 for more test scores and details.

3dMark 11 (Performance): P12720
http://3dmark.com/3dm11/1853612

3dMark Vantage (Performance): P44179
http://3dmark.com/3dmv/3488671

It will be a liquid cooled PC with two loops. One for the CPU & Chipset, and one for the GPUs. Housing the new build is the Corsair Obsidian 800D. This case is a monster, and I love the all black look, inside and out. I had to make a few minor modifications for the two loop system to work, but the mod went great, and I am pleased with the results.

Parts List:
* Case: Corsair Obsidian 800D Full ATX
* Power Supply: Corsair HX1000
* Motherbord: EVGA X58 Classified
* CPU: Intel i7 Core 970
* RAM: 12GB Corsair Dominator @ 1600MHz
* GPU: 1 EVGA GTX 580 Hydro Copper 2
* GPU: 2 EVGA GTX 580 Hydro Copper 2
* GPU: 3 EVGA 9800GT (Dedicated PhysX, and to power side LCD monitors)
* Sound Card: Creative X-Fi Titanium Fatal1ty Edition
* Hard Drive 1: Intel X-25m 160GB SSD (Operating System & Programs)
* Hard Drive 2: WD Velociraptor 150GB HDD (Game/Steam Installs)
* Hard Drive 3: Seagate 500GB (User Files)
* Hard Drive 4: Seagate 1TB (Storage)
* Optical Drive: Asus Blu-Ray / DVD+R
* Fan Controller: Scythe Kaze Master Pro 5.25" 6 Channel Fan Controller / Temp Display
* Card Reader: Silverstone FP35 housed in ******** 5.25” to 3.5” bay adapter

Loop 01 (Blue)
* Tubing: PrimoFlex Pro LRT UV Blue Tubing -3/8in. ID X 5/8in. OD (10ft)
* Coolant: Feser One UV Blue
* Reservoir: XSPC Acrylic Dual 5.25in. Reservoir (originally was a XSPC 5.25" Black Single Bay Res)
* Pump: Swiftech MCP350 12 VDC Pump
* Radiator: HardWare Labs X-Flow Extreme III
* CPU Block: Swiftech APOGEE-XT Extreme (originally was a Swiftech GTZ as seen in a few pictures)
* MoBo Block: EK-EVGA X58 Classified Full Board Waterblock
* Fittings: Bitspower Compression Fitting-ID 3/8" OD 5/8" (x2)
* Fittings: Bitspower Barb Fitting-ID 3/8" (x2)
* Fittings: Bitspower G1/4 Dual Rotary 45-Degree Compression Fitting-ID 3/8" OD 5/8" (x4)
* Misc Parts: Bitspower Metal T-Block, Bitspower Temp Sensor, Bitspower Male to Male G 1/4 Fitting
* Koolance QDCs (Quick Disconnects) (x2)
* Fans: Cooler Master R4 120mm Blue LED Fan R4-L2R-20AC-GP (x3)

Loop 02 (Green)
* Tubing: PrimoFlex Pro LRT UV Green Tubing -3/8in. ID X 5/8in. OD (10ft)
* Coolant: Feser One UV Green
* Reservoir: XSPC Acrylic Dual 5.25in. Reservoir (originally was a XSPC 5.25" Black Single Bay Res)
* Pump: Swiftech MCP350 12 VDC Pump
* Radiator: HardWare Labs GTX240
* GPU Block: The EVGA GTX 580 Hydro Coppers come with a custom Swiftech WB pre-installed
* Fittings: Bitspower Matte Black Rotary 90 Degree Compression Fitting-ID 3/8" OD 5/8" (x2)
* Fittings: Bitspower Compression Fitting-ID 3/8" OD 5/8" (x4)
* Fittings: Bitspower Barb Fitting-ID 3/8" (x2)
* Fittings: Bitspower G1/4 Dual Rotary 45-Degree Compression Fitting-ID 3/8" OD 5/8" (x2)
* Misc Parts: Bitspower Acrylic T-Block, Bitspower Temp Sensor, Bitspower Male to Male G 1/4 Fitting
* Koolance QDCs (Quick Disconnects) (x2)
* Fans: Cooler Master R4 120mm Blue LED Fan R4-L2R-20AC-GP (x2)

I will post the pictures within the build log, but will also add a link to a larger version of each picture if anyone would like to take a closer look at something.

The case arrived in excellent condition. I knew the dimensions, but was still amazed as to how big it was.

Build_01

In order to make it work for my dual loop idea, I had to modify the bottom of the case to accept a radiator. For a more detailed work log on adding a bottom radiator, go here:
http://forum.corsair.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81698
In order to remove the bottom hard drive cage you must remove a total of 2 screws and 8 rivets. Two of the rivets must be replaced once the drive cage has been removed.

Build_02

Build_03

Build_04

Before adding the power supply, I applied some weather stripping material to the rails that will hold up the PSU to give a bit of cushion. I also used Vinyl Dye to make all the PSU cables jet black. I was planning on individually rel-sleeving all of the cables but decided against it after I tried on a test cable and realized how much of a pain in the ***** it was. I also didn’t want the added bulk of the individual sleeves. Vinyl Dye is not paint. It gets absorbed into the cable sleeve and turns everything black. Looks great and is really easy to apply.

Build_05

Next step was to remove the stock cooling from the EVGA X58 Classified and install a full board block from EK. It’s a great match for the board, and temps on the VREGs and Chipset are MUCH lower than with stock cooling.

Build_06

Build_07

I decided to go with the Swiftech APOGEE XT for my CPU block. I didn’t like the shiny chrome look of the mounting brackets so I spray painted them black to better match the rest of the components.

Just to get an idea of what it looks like, I threw in the 12GB of Dominator RAM along with the Corsair RAM Cooler.

Build_09

Build_10

Now on the the rest of the liquid cooling loops.

gutcheck · #2 10-01-2009, 11:43 AM

Thanks for doing this. I am watching this with great interest as I will be builiding my first WC'ed system and this is really educational Now, we need more pics!!!! :)

SpeedRacer · #3 10-01-2009, 01:39 PM

Thank you Mr_Armageddon for taking the time to show us the details of your build. I have been thinking about how to expand the radiator footprint of this case since it was introduced. Knowing that a 360 radiator was not going to be enough to cool an i7 and a pair of GTX 260's.

Cannot wait to see you finished build!

Thanks again for giving us new ideas on how to mod this case!

Mr_Armageddon · #4 10-02-2009, 12:24 AM

I have dyed all the fan cables/extensions along with the other PSU connections that were not already black.
Here you can see the tape job covering all the connectors, in preparation for the vinyl dye. The pump is also wrapped up there on the right.

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Here are all the fan extensions that plug into the fan controller, dyed jet black.

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These are the Swiftech MCP350 pumps that I will be using for the two loops. At first I mounted them in the bottom of the hard drive cage. Later on I installed them in the XPCS Dual Bay Res. Pictures of that to follow.

Here is what the CPU/Chipset loop will look like. I haven't mounted the top radiator yet, but you get the idea. You can see the two pumps sitting side by side behind the fan controller. Next bay up is the card reader. The two Reservoirs, and the Optical Drive.

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Here is a pic of the front with all the bays installed.

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Side shot with one loop partially installed, and all the PCIe / PCI slots filled with what I have. (1) Creative X-Fi Titanuim Fatal1ty Edition, (2) EVGA 8800 Ultra, (3) EVGA 9800GT (PhysX), (4) Wireless N Card.

*Side Note.... that sag you see in the seperator between the PSU chamber and Motherboard area has been fixed buy using a wodden dowl, spray-painted black. It will be visible in future pictures.

Wired · #5 10-02-2009, 01:35 AM

Is the divider between the PSU and motherboard zones sagging at all?

gutcheck · #6 10-02-2009, 11:35 AM

you haven't mounted the top radiator yet, correct?

Mr_Armageddon · #7 10-02-2009, 04:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wired

Is the divider between the PSU and motherboard zones sagging at all?

I didn't notice until you mentioned it. It is sagging about 10mm. I have already fixed it and will post a pick tonight. Thanks.

Mr_Armageddon · #8 10-02-2009, 04:17 PM

I have hit a snag. Today while taking lunch I rushed home to install the top 360 radiator. I am using a Black Ice X-Flow III. I attached the fans and got the radiator in place, only to realize that when mounted inside the 800D, X-Flow rads render the top 5.25in bay inoperable.

The bard sticking down from the rad will not allow you to use an optical drive in the top bay. There just isn't enough room to do it. I am currently using all 5 bays, so removing something and moving all the bays down 1 spot isn't an option.

I hope I can swap some bays around to make enough room to get it to work. If not, I may have to buy a new radiator that has both barbs on the same side of the rad. As soon as I get home from work I will get back to trying to find a solution.

Wired · #9 10-02-2009, 04:54 PM

Look for a DVD drive that's shorter?

craxx · #10 10-02-2009, 06:26 PM

y do u need two colors. i admit it would look pretty sick but if i had that problem i would most likely just use one color, and only need one res.

SpeedRacer · #11 10-02-2009, 09:36 PM

He has two loops and two pump = two reserves.

Mr_Armageddon · #12 10-03-2009, 09:57 AM

Originally I had planned to have my Optical Drive in the top bay of the case. But I ran into the issue with the barb from the radiator sticking out into the top 5.25in bay. I thought I had planed so meticulously, and this kind of mistake really pissed me off. Luckily, the fix wasn't too bad, and ended up only being a minor delay. I was able to move the card reader from the 4th bay down, up to the top bay, and put the optical drive in its place. Problem solved.
Here you can see where the barb was in the way and how far it made the optical drive stick out. No bueno.

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Here is the fix by switching the card reader with the optical drive.

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Here is a shot of the tubing I used for this build. PrimoFlex Pro LRT UV Tubing -3/8in. ID

Here is the guy that was giving me all the problems. The X-Flow design means that there is one port on each side of the radiator. That way you don't have to run tubing across the PC case. I though it would make for an easier install, but that proved not to be true because of the barb issue.
The fans are Cooler Master R4 120mm Blue LED Fan R4-L2R-20AC-GP. They push a lot of air, but can be a bit loud when maxed out. With the fan controller I have them at about 1,000RPM, and they are whisper quiet and still move plenty of air through the radiator. They do have blue LEDs but they are not very bright and give a soft blue glow to the inside of the case. I used 6-32 x 3/8" Socket Cap Head Screws to secure the fans to the radiator, and the radiator to the case.

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These are the fan extensions cables that plug into the Scynth Kaze Server Fan Controller. I used vinyl dye to get them jet black. You can see them plugged in along with some of the temperature monitor cables.

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For my liquid I went with Feser One non-conductive fluid. UV blue and UV green to match the colors of the tubing.

I ending up not using these Reservoirs, and will include pictures of the new one in a future post. For now, check out the Feser One liquids lookin' pretty with LED backlighting.

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That's all for now. Still waiting on my Intel i7-970 to get in, should be here Monday. I am going to show pictures of the new Reservoir along with the rest of the updates in various posts over the next few days. I welcome community feedback, so let me know what you think so far. Thanks for looking.

gutcheck · #13 10-03-2009, 11:54 AM

Please include your temps. This is so freakin cool.

I ordered my case so it is on the way :)

craxx · #14 10-03-2009, 01:46 PM

nice to see u fixed it. cant wait to see the final product.

x509 · #15 10-03-2009, 05:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr_Armageddon

These are the fan extensions cables that plug into the Scynth Kaze Server Fan Controller. I used vinyl dye to get them jet black. You can see them plugged in along with some of the temperature monitor cables.

Click to View Larger Image

Mr_Armageddon. If there was a monthly contest for "The Most Creative Guy on Corsair Forums," I think you would would win the award for October. And maybe November and December also!

One question. Do you look to see if there were any fan controllers with a smooth front panel, that is, without twist knobs? Something like a touch-screen to control the fans?

Thanks, and you have MY vote for The Most Creative Guy.