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#46
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Medium to high might make 1-2° diff. The road on h100 is not very thick or dense so it doesn't take much fan to Max out its cooling potential. I keep hoping for a 240 rad corsair cooler as thick as an h80, prob never happen tho. Would be a force to be reckoned with.
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#47
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Not only is the rad not thick enough, the lines themselves are also too narrow to effectively transfer heat from such a hot chip. For Corsair to make 50mm thick 240mm rads will require them to re-design new cases like the 800D's roof to accommodate it.
Last edited by joejoe69; 09-12-2012 at 06:48 PM. |
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#48
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I've been looking at this thread on and off for the last few days now, and I have a bit of a theory about your 3770K, and I think that the reason why you're not seeing much of an improvement after reseating the IHS is because the thermal paste you're using isn't that great.
Try using MX-2 or MX-4 in between the heat spreader and CPU die, but instead of the line method, use a stanley blade or an old credit card to spread an extremely thin layer across it, making sure it covers every last bit of the die. And then use a blob of MX-2/MX-4 on the center of the IHS and let the CPU cooler spread it out for you, maybe that'll give you better temps. ^___^ I've heard people are getting 10 degrees C better temps when they replace the TIM in between the IHS and die, but none of them used Arctic Silver 5 when they did it afaik. Great build btw, really nice, it's just a shame about the H100 fan controller breaking down. :( And is it just me, or does the CPU look better without the IHS on it? |
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#49
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Thanks for the tips. I'll try Arctic MX-4, AS5 is kinda getting old for me as well. Even though the fan controller was a dud on H100, I just didn't think it could handle a highly overclocked Ivy Bridge. My custom loop bits are slowly coming in and I can't wait to get it together. And yes, the bare die looks absolutely pretty.
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#50
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Going with an XSPC Raystorm kit to cool the CPU and GPU. An RS240 rad will be used for the CPU and as you can see, it makes the H100 rad look like Steve Erkel.
![]() About the same length. ![]() The H100's tube and fins are smaller, and the fins are more dense. ![]() ![]() The RS240's tubes are bigger but the fins are more spaced apart for lower RPM fans. ![]() ![]() Spent a few minutes measuring and planning while taking some things apart. ![]() Hopefully, if space permits, I can get a 120mm rad behind the exhaust fan for secondary cooling for the GPU.
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#51
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An XSPC dual drive bay pump/reservoir will be used to hold the premixed EC-6 UV Blue coolant. The front will be stealthed behind the filtered mesh just like my Bluray drive, sans the reservoir's front sight window.
![]() Here's the mockup of the lines that will be run throughout the system. First from the pump fitting in the foreground on the reservoir to the RS240 rad. From the RS240 rad, it will then go to the CPU block, out of the CPU block to an XSPC RAZOR water block for the GTX 670. After cooling the GTX 670, the coolant will drop down to an RS120 rad, then back up to the reservoir. AF140 QE fans on top will be exhausting heat up through the RS240 rad and an SP120 QE fan will be pushing heat down to the bottom through the RS120 rad. ![]() Still waiting on my Arctic MX-4 thermal paste to arrive to I can start putting it together... Last edited by joejoe69; 09-21-2012 at 11:51 PM. |
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#52
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Finished routing my "interim" clear hoses for the loop. They are pretty much routed exactly how I planned with my previous ghetto drawing above. The XSPC RAZOR GPU block was already temp installed and its lines were measured. I'll be using blue hoses instead of the clear ones. Also, both the CPU and GPU will have Bitspower compression fittings. The rads and reservoir will have to settle for pinch-ratchet clamps for now. Fitting's aren't cheap, they add up!!
![]() I swapped the AF140 exhaust fan for an AF120 and replaced the AF120 below for an SP120 on the rad, pushing down and out. ![]() The power supply also had to be flipped upside down to allow the wires to clear the RS120 rad and fan. Now the trollers can say it's "right side up"... ![]() A 4-channel LED fan controller, mounted in one of the drive trays, will be used to adjust fan profiles within the case. ![]() AF140s now fill up the top, exhausting heat out quietly. ![]() Let me know what you guys think about this 1/2 push-pull setup. Is it worth it? ![]() Getting there... ![]() The party side.
Last edited by joejoe69; 09-21-2012 at 02:08 AM. |
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#53
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First of all great job so far with your build *thumbs up*. Question.. what thickness acrylic did you use for the window mod?
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#54
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Thanks!! About 1/4" thick, I believe. I got it from Home Depot. It was a huge piece that I had to cut to match the area of the window. They also have thinner plexiglass that fits perfect if you don't wan't to cut anything and just slap it right on.
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#56
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Thanks. I hated seeing my temps shoot up to 90°C, even for brief second. Since water takes about 4 times the amount of air to heat up, I SHOULD see more acceptable temps when overckocking.
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#57
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After patiently waiting a few days for my Arctic MX-4, the Gigabyte GTX 670 Windforce will finally be free of its fans.
![]() GTX 680?? Wrong cooling block!! Actually, Gigabyte uses the GTX 680's reference PCB to design its GTX 670. Convenient!! ![]() Off with the air heatsink. ![]() One more look at the Kepler. ![]() Thermal pads and paste applied. ![]() Non-metallic washers and screws gets fastened. ![]() All done. Plugs and compression fittings tightened and ready for more mockups.
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#58
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The Raystorm CPU block is tightened down, along with its compression fittings. The entire system is kink free, however it can be improved with more angled rotary compression fittings in some areas. Overall, I think it looks good. Now on to measuring up the blue tubing and doing a one-for-one swap with the mockups...
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() The system should be filled and running soon... |
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#59
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Got the final tubes in. Everything is nice and tight and guaranteed not to leak. The pump and lights are the only things powered by the PSU for the leak check.
![]() Bleeding the bubbles out both rads. The top 240mm rad held the most air so I had to flip it a few times more than the 120mm. I could hear the fluid swooshing around like an H100 rad. To everyone who has an H100, give it a shake. If you hear swooshing, chances are, you have air in it!! And it's bad... ![]() ![]() ![]() Bubbles finally disappeared after 20 minutes of bleeding. ![]() Some lighting to brighten up the coolant. ![]() The CPU block looks badass with the LEDs. ![]() ![]() Some closed panel shots. ![]() ![]() A look at the front. ![]() Its been running for 9 hours now, leak free. I think I'll stop it and press on with wiring management.
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#60
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Siiiiiick I got same gpu as you now. U got me jonsing for some wc. Power limit is so weak waters hardly worth on this gpu tho. Mine maxes at 59 after 4 hours of bf3 on auto fan.
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