gienah

Corsair Commander Pro Driver Sent In To Linux 5.9 https://www.phoronix.com/scan.php?page=news_item&px=HWMON-For-Linux-5.9

Yes its those tiny ones in the middle of your photo, thanks, I've now learned they are SSD screws that I used. I can't remember what type of screws were used originally. It doesn't take much to hold it on, so I'm sure its fine. Yes I had noticed that the Corsair sell the logo in some countries, thanks for the photo of the creative use of one.

I'm not sure what you mean by iCue hardware. OpenCorsairLink works with the Commander Pro and some Corsair AIOs. This old blog article explains it: https://danysk.github.io/information%20technology/make-corsair-water-cooling-work-under-linux/ If its custom water cooling using a Commander Pro, then the idea is to place a temperature sensor something like: http://www.barrowint.com/plus/view.php?aid=1284 in the loop and plug the temperature sensor into one of the TEMP inputs on the commander pro. The pump(s), fan hub(s), and exhaust fan(s) would be plugged into the FANS connectors.

I have managed to screw it in, I used 2 of the very tiniest black countersunk phillips head machine screws that came with the case, in a bag of about 20 or maybe more of these tiny machine screws.

I took off the sails logo on the front on a Obsidian 1000d case, because I had to sleeve the cables (you know, had to, as in obsession), and now I want to put it back on and I'm confused as to what type are the 2 screws that hold it on? I guess they look like they are really tiny. Even a hint at whether they are machine screws or self tapping screws would help, thanks.

I haven't tried it yet, and it will take me a while to finish the build to try it. I did some research on the Commander Pro support on linux. I notice that the iCue software gets a garbage rating running under Wine in Linux: https://appdb.winehq.org/objectManager.php?sClass=application&iId=19165 I expect the open source project OpenCorsairLink will allow setting a fan temperature curve, and to set a pump speed on the Commander Pro: https://github.com/audiohacked/OpenCorsairLink This is good enough for me, I don't care about the RGB. If you care about the RGB, then you could try OpenRGB, however I'm unsure if OpenRGB can control the fans. https://gitlab.com/CalcProgrammer1/OpenRGB/-/issues/112 But you could just set the fan curves with OpenCorsairLink and try using OpenRGB for the RGB. I am encouraged enough by the reports of OpenCorsairLink working to try to connect the fans and a water temperature sensor to the Commander Pro and try it (later, will take a while).

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-CC-8930032-Storage-Upgrade-Secondary/dp/B07M9SN38J/ https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-CFP53B-Drive-Suspension-Mounting/dp/B0034XRDV4/ https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Stackable-Bracket-Cases-PH-HDDKT_03/dp/B07GY2B3WP/ I have 2 pairs on the Phanteks. They are a grey colour. I might look at spray painting them satin black. I guess they look kind of cheap. I cut out a sheet of steel with hole/slots in it for the locking tabs, and some holes for the 2 thumbscrews that hold the pump bracket on top of the drive bay. So 1 drive is going in front of the drive bay. Similarly, I made a another larger steel sheet to mount 2 more drives on the bulkhead up high above the drive bay, and another sheet of steel on top of 2 drives stacked up there, to mount the pump/reservoirs in front of these 2 drives.

An option is to remove the top tray, rails, and the rear bracket holding the rail. Then to fabricate your own tray and brackets to hold it up there. That allows the top radiator and fans to be mounted a little higher. Its possible to temporarily remove the front bracket that was holding the top fan rails so that you can remove the screws holding the glass/aluminum top on. Then to refit the front bracket. You need four really short M4 screws, 6mm cup head sort of works, it seems with recessed head they need to be shorter than 6mm, to hold the glass to the aluminum top. Then the top can just sit there. Another possible hack instead of fabricating a fan tray and brackets is: With the top now removable you can drill some holes to hold the top radiator(s) up there with cup head bolts to suit your radiator. If you run 2 480mm radiators in the top then (if you are not fabricating a fan tray and brackets) you would have to use a strip of sheet metal that is drilled for holes where the radiators are adjacent to each other, as these radiator/fan holes do not line up with the metal in the top of case. This sheet metal strip down the middle of the top 2 radiators prevents installing the top filter, since its sitting on the top of the case where the top filter would normally go. It looks like it may be difficult to insert the bolts through the strip down the centre of the 2 radiators into the radiators, as the case that is holding the strip up is in the way of the bolts. The case is also in the way of the bolts on the ends of the radiator. I'm not saying this hack is a good idea, I'm just letting you know as a cheap option. I guess I don't really like this jerry rigged hack much actually, but it would look really neat anyway in the finished build. You need to be very careful with the lengths of the bolts using this kind of hack, as you don't want to damage the radiator inserting bolts the wrong length.

The distance from the raised screw holes on the front tray to the rear compartment bulkhead and the drive bay is 120mm. If the ports are on the bottom, then you need to figure out if the fittings and tubes will fit, you may want to run the front radiators in parallel. There is a clash in the inside top front corner with the top radiators/fans. If the ports are on the top, then this makes the clash worse.

With these female fan connectors: https://www.cable-sleeving.com/4-pin-fan-connector https://www.cable-sleeving.com/crimp-terminal-fan-female I found one of the tabs is in a different place to other 4 pin fan connectors. A few seconds modification with a box cutter knife removes this tab and then I can plug it in. The male connectors I bought from here: https://www.singularitycomputers.com/shop/cables/custom-wiring/4-pin-fan-male/ And the pins: https://www.singularitycomputers.com/shop/cables/custom-wiring/pins/fan-pins-male/ Your build is looking good, I like the way you mounted the reservoirs.

The thread depends on what brand of radiator you are using, for example EK, XSPC and Magicool use UNC 6-32 thread, while as Alphacool and Watercool use M3 thread. For the bolts connected to the fan tray I'm using 1.5" long button head allen key bolts, however I'm having to space them with a neoprene washer about 2mm thick and 2 small steel washers (about 0.6mm and 0.5mm thick). Maybe 1.25" long bolts might reach. With no washers they seem to take 2mm going through the tray, which might leave 3mm or possibly less to screw in the radiator. For the inside fans I think you'd want them 1.25" long. It is recommended to check if you need to space them with any washers to avoid screwing into the radiator core.